The wonders of Liushan Mud Volcano in Donggang

It seems the mud and gas never spout out of the same place twice: About fifty meters away from the temple, near the edge of the flat, dusty expanse of dried mud that surrounds it, a small pool of water dotted with pretty flowering water lilies is evidently an old, long-dormant crater.

We go inside, and Mr. Hong shows us a series of mysterious marks and patterns in the temple's marble floor. Pointing out marks that apparently resemble a pair of carp, two lions, a frog biting a coin, even Kuanyin, Goddess of Mercy, our guide maintains these 'miraculous' images appeared during subsequent eruptions of the mud volcano underneath.

In lieu of actually witnessing the volcano in action, we're shown impressive footage on video of the mud volcano's latest show, a couple of weeks earlier, as it spewed flames and muddy water four or five meters into the air while a crowd of delighted locals look on from a safe distance.

Unless you're lucky enough to time a visit to Liushan during one of it's 'eruptions' there's little to see; for something more dramatic, head to the village of Yanchao (燕巢) in neighboring Kaohsiung County to take a look at the constantly bubbling Yangnu Pool, or the shapely cone of Wushanding Mud Volcano (烏山頂泥火山), which often reaches three or more meters in height. Liushan, on the other hand, is fascinating for its sheer unpredictability: Even the temple caretaker has no idea when it will next explode into action. Which is why, if you're in the area, it's well worth making a short detour on the way south and paying it a quick visit.

HOW TO GET THERE:

A little Chinese ability and a good pair of eyes are an asset in locating Liushan Mud Volcano as it's tricky to find, and not well signposted. Turn off national route 27 about eight kilometers north of Donggang into local route 55, passing the 'showpiece' Chishan Temple (赤山嚴). A couple of hundred meters later turn right into a tiny lane (look out for the red Chinese characters for 'mud volcano' (泥火山) stenciled onto the road. Follow the red stencil marks along a complicated network of narrow lanes and you'll reach the orange temple (無極真宗皇源聖殿) in the middle of the mud volcano about ten minutes after leaving the main road.

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 The wonders of Liushan Mud Volcano in Donggang 
A small temple stands in the center of a large expanse of dry, cracked mud left over from the mud volcano's various eruptions. (By Richard Saunders, special to The China Post)

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