The coral formations of Xiao Liuqiu

For some reason, however, I've never felt especially intrigued by the place, and it was only when I finally found time to pay the island a visit one overcast weekend, recently, that I discovered the island is actually extremely beautiful. It seems Xiao Liuqiu has an identity problem: If the tourist literature and the several articles I've read on the island are to be believed, its most impressive sights are the shapely and unusual (but quite small) Vase Rock, a lollipop-shaped stack of dead coral rising out of the sea just offshore, and the beautiful surrounding ocean, which glows a rich deep blue in fine weather, but was a rather subdued greenish color on the cloudy day we arrived.

Arriving on one of the fairly frequent yachts (leaving every hour or two) from the little port of Donggang (東港), thirty kilometers south of Kaohsiung, first impressions are quite unimpressive. The yacht docks at the island's main village, Baisha (白沙) an unremarkable collection of shops, motorcycle rental places and eateries gathered around the jetty and boat arrival hall. However, get yourself a pair of wheels (there's no need for scooter licenses and other such irritating formalities here!), and in no time at all you'll be zipping along the coastal road out of town, heading counter-clockwise towards Beautiful Lady Cave (美人洞), and beginning to appreciate just what a wonderful escape Xiu Liuqiu is.

For a start, the number of cars on the island can be counted on one hand, and apart from other scooters, it's highly unusual to see any form of motor vehicle aside from the little bus service which occasionally shuttles those visitors and locals unfortunate enough to be scooter-less around the island.

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