Exploring a waterfall in southernmost Taiwan

Thankfully, the path zigzags through the bamboo up the mountainside and the steps are very shallow and easy on the legs, at least going up. Several fine views over the elegant, orange-tiled roofs of large temples are passed on the way, and the panorama over the flat coastal plain to the west, laid to farmland, adds interest to the easy climb.

After a steady 30 minutes (20 minutes if you push it), a white ornamental pavilion stands beside the steps, and the hike is almost over. A concrete viewing platform next to the pavilion is a good place to rest, as it commands the best view of the walk over the flat — if rather featureless — plains of northern Pingtung County. It’s better, however, to persevere a few meters further before stopping, climbing past a bright red Earth God shrine.

In just a few more meters, the path descends into the ravine of a small stream to the base of Dajin Waterfall, which plunges over a sheer cliff face of black rock in several thread-like skeins of snowy water, coming to rest 35 meters below in a rock pool a meter or so deep.

This is actually the second (and tallest) of five falls on the stream — three of which are inaccessible. Follow the rocky streambed down from the big drop for about a 100 meters and the stream leaps over a second, shorter fall into a rocky cleft, forming a natural spa bath which the locals haven’t been slow to utilize, fixing ropes to make the climb down the rocky bluff beside the fall safer. If the stream is running low, the water pouring over the brink forms a fine massaging water jet — a rather ugly piece of plastic sheeting has been fixed in place to divert the water clear of the rock.

Unlike Taipei, which can get pretty chilly during the first couple of months of the year, southern Taiwan seems to bake the whole year round, and come weekends you’ll probably have plenty of locals for company at the waterfall. The best bet to beat the regulars is to pay a visit during the week or come when the stream is in flood. Alternatively, bring swimwear, dive straight in with everyone else, take advantage of this great natural spa to cool off after the climb, and enjoy a slice of colorful, authentic Taiwanese culture.

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