Penghu: Taiwan’s own island retreat

As soon as my husband heard that the cactus ice cream here was particularly good, he sprinted away from the tour group to buy us some cones. A bit like a sorbet, the tart yet sweet ice cream was a refreshing treat after walking around all afternoon.

Our next stop was Western Fort in Shiyu (西嶼 ) Township. Reminiscent of the catacombs of Rome with its dark and winding passageways, my husband kept talking about how much fun it’d be to play manhunt here. For those not inclined to wait until dark and run around getting the bejesus scared out of you, this old fort is a fun place just to wander around and get lost in. Overlooking the ocean, the fort was built in 1887 to protect against pirates, and is now the largest and best-preserved fortress in Penghu.

During our last day in Penghu, we took a boat ride that felt rather like we were riding a half-hour long roller coaster. If you are prone to seasickness, then having a supply of motion sickness medicine handy might be a good idea, as high-speed ferries are about the only form of transportation between islands. Our destination was Tungpan Island, home to Penghu’s famed basalt rock cliffs.

On this last day, the sun had finally come out after two days of overcast skies. We walked along admiring the large groves of cactus and, stretching above that, the magnificent cliffs. On our right, the sun turned the ocean a brilliant turquoise, and a gentle wind blew. We stopped to gaze out across the ocean. Somewhere on the other side was Taipei, and I knew that before long we’d be back in the midst of life as usual. But for now, we were content.

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