Updated Thursday, December 11, 2008 11:01 am TWN, By Richard Saunders, Special to The China Post

Li Teng-fang House -- One of the finest surviving examples of a Hakka residence in Taiwan

It was because of that big river that the Lee family and (many other Hakka who had left their homeland in the southeast China province of Fujian) settled here, in Dasi. It’s hard to appreciate it from the sad, shallow watercourse that flows through the valley today, but a century or so ago the Dahan River which flows through Dasi was wide and deep, and provided an efficient and easy method for transporting the agricultural riches grown in the Dasi area (including camphor, tea, rice and vegetables) downstream to Taipei. Thus many Hakka merchants such as the Lee family that traded in Dasi became exceedingly wealthy; reminders of this past glory can be seen to this day throughout the town in its older houses, some of which have beautiful, elaborately carved facades.

The grandest of them all, the Lee Teng-fang old house is a traditional Hakka, three-winged construction, guarded by a large semi-circular pool and a whitewashed wall of mud brick. Entering through the main gate, inside is a huge, open courtyard, with two stone bases that once supported flag poles from which Lee’s flag of office would flutter, as if anyone entering this grand residence needed reminding of the family’s exalted status! Through another gate in a second wall (this time of rich, red brick), the entrance to the house stands opposite, across a smaller inner courtyard.

After such an elaborate approach, the house at first looks surprisingly small and low, but walk inside, and this first building is revealed as simply an entrance building, behind which lies a complicated warren of corridors, chambers, larger rooms (on two floors) and courtyards. Most of the rooms stand empty, although there are a few small exhibitions of photos showing members of the Lee family and Dasi as it looked back in their time. Best of all, though, is the decoration and carving: The conspicuous and graceful swallowtail roof blades, yet another symbol of Lee’s officer status, catch the eye even before entering the complex of buildings, while inside are countless beautiful carvings in wood, sandstone and (it’s true!) mud, plus painting and calligraphy of great quality.

Opened to the public at the end of 2004, the Lee Teng-fang House has already become quite a popular stop on the Dasi tourist trail, and, despite lying well out of the town center, it’s an easy one to visit, courtesy of the regular (and free) new shuttle bus service that winds its way around Dasi’s main tourist attractions, stopping at the house on its way.

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	Beside the entrance to the inner courtyard of the Lee Teng-fang old house, several stone bases are supports for ceremonial flagpoles that would once have flown Lee’s ceremonial flag of office. (By Richard Saunders, Special to The China Post) More Photos (2)

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