Li Tengfang Mansion features traditional Taiwanese architecture

Soon you will come across signs directing you to the place — a Grade 2 National Heritage Site. The surrounding fields are sown with colorful flowers blooming in late spring, making it quite an impressive view.

As you pass through the outer gate, you enter a large paved front yard with four carved flag-post base stones. Separated from it by a low wall are an inner yard and the actual buildings. The whole complex is rather unusually oriented towards the east, apparently to let the first morning rays shoot through the entry hall directly into the main hall behind.

The roof features the “swallow tails design,” — tips pointed upwards, which was a privilege granted to successful exam candidates. Inside the buildings is a maze of small, dark rooms separated by massive wooden partitions — a security feature that gave the inhabitants time to avoid and eventually lock up intruders. In one of the side yards note two wells with a post in between.

As a matter of fact, only one of the wells held water while the other served as a shaft for weight suspended from a rocker beam balanced on the post in the middle. Do not miss the traditional Hakka kitchen with slender chimneys rising from the stove. Rooms are generally unfurnished, but there are exquisite carvings on the beams and charming paintings on the walls.

There are obviously other interesting architectural details, such as cat-holes beside the doors and window bars. A detailed guidebook is available only in Chinese.

Li Tengfang Mansion is a fine piece of traditional Taiwanese architecture, well preserved and, unlike Taipei’s House of Lin Family, very quiet even on weekends. It is possible to relax without dodging dozens of wedding photographers and promenading couples.

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