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Back to a bygone era

Mini Tokyo?

Jinguashih, hidden between Chahu Mountain and Keelung Mountain, suits those who like the quiet beauty of a mountain backdrop and seascapes.

Downhill from Jioufen's old streets, visitors will find a historical perspective of Jinguashih at the Gold Ecological Park, where the chapters of gold mining history are relived today.

In addition to the Environmental Education Center and Museum of Gold, the park recently opened the Gold-refining Building. The tour in the new building begins with a video of an ex-miner telling the tale of the gold rush during the Japanese occupations.

Hidden in a rear corner of the park is the Prince Guest House, transporting visitors to Osaka or Kyoto.

Built in 1922, the guest house is a must-see for its elegant representation of traditional Japanese architecture, made from the finest cypress wood and assembled without a single nail. It's also chockfull of good anecdotes!

The house was originally built for former Japanese Emperor Hirohito when he was the prince, but according to the tour guide, he never lived there. Instead, Hirohito stayed in Keelung when he visited the island. Rumors suggest that the prince's original plan changed because he was warned of an assassination attempt against him. Others say that he detoured to Europe because his cousin had gotten into a car accident there.

The structure's grounds are decorated with a Japanese-style garden and a tranquil pond, with a mini golf driving range and an archery field in the back.

The colorful scenes of Jinguashih

Now, be ready for some golden scenes at the Golden waterfall that spills down the hillside Chahu Mountain. There is no gold there to discover, but the view is equally precious. The waterfall gets its namesake golden hue from the copper and iron deposits in the mines. Owing to its special color, the waterfall is a popular wedding photo spot.

Also alongside Mt. Chahu, but further downhill, sits the abandoned smelting factory famously known as the Old 13th Floor. The plant is built vertically along the hillside in 13 floors that, taken as a whole, bear a passing similarity with Aztec Ruins. But this is no tomb.

The uppermost end of the building offers a clear view of the distant Yin-Yang Sea, where red iron-rich water mingles with the blue waves. Walk alongside the coast and enjoy the hand-painted sea view. As the final stop, it is the ideal location to collect your thoughts before returning to reality – the present day.

How to get there:

By car:

Get on to the national highway #1 and head north towards the Northeast Coast Scenic Area (東北角風景區), then continue on towards Reifang (瑞芳) and Nuannuan (暖暖).

By bus:

Take the Keelung Bus (基隆客運) that goes towards Jinguashih (金瓜石) and get off at the stop for Jioufen (九份).

By train:

Get off at Reifang station, then take the connecting bus to Jioufen.

Chuchuan A-man's Taro Balls 祖傳阿滿 #41-2, Jishan St., Reifang Township, Taipei County 台北縣瑞芳鎮基山街41-2號 (02) 2496-5038

Liao Family's Century Old Shop 九份廖家 # 129 Jishan St., Reifang Township, Taipei County台北縣瑞芳鎮基山街129號 (02) 2497-1572

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Back to a bygone era
Jioufen's star, the famous staircase. (By James Topley, Special to The China Post)

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