Back to a bygone era

Six different stuffing flavors are available, including the original sweet white beans, my personal favorite, and the most popular, taro (NT$10/pastry). Customers can purchase the pastries individually or pick ten flavors to fill a well-dressed box for NT$100.

Perpendicular to Jishan Street lies the star locale of Jioufen – the famous staircase down Shuci Road that featured prominently in The City of Sadness.

As I strolled down the stairs, enveloped by rows of ancient teahouses, the clock turned back to Jioufen's glory days.

For history buffs or those who just need a break, a café that bears the same name as the movie, also known as A-Mei Tea House, offers specialty meals of traditional Taiwanese food. Refreshing tea is also available to those already full from the sweet snacks.

Even though descending the staircase is a mere 10-minute walk, many visitors linger there the longest for its culture and historic character.

Forge onwards to the bottom of the staircase to arrive at the front door of the 80-year-old Shenping Theater. Rebuilt in 1951, Shenping was the first modern theater in northern Taiwan, and surprisingly, the tiny place was once the biggest. Squeezed in between two more attention-grabbing buildings, the now quaint-looking theater seems fatigued, but still charming.

Continuing down around the hill leads you to the last part of Old Street, the Chinpien Road, home to a cluster of hostels and guesthouses.

Most accommodations here are difficult to locate, but once found, are hard to leave. Although these aren't grand 5-star hotels, they are each weirdly-shaped and have a unique past. Situated on the hill, many rooms provide a breathtaking view of natural greenery out the windows.

Jinguashih shares many of Jiufen's qualities though it has one subtle difference: smaller crowds! Visitors there can experience a peaceful sanctuary, away from the bustling streets.

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