A second look at Sanxia

In the 18th and 19th centuries, Sanxia's economy was driven by the region's natural resources — camphor, coal, tea, and timber. Indigo dyeing was a major industry. But when trucks and trains began replacing riverboats as the main means of shifting goods around north Taiwan, Sanxia was soon eclipsed by upstart towns like Taoyuan.

You can learn a bit about Sanxia's history in the Sanxia Historical Relics Hall (三峽歷史文物館, open 9 a.m. to 5 p.m., closed Mondays), a stone's throw from the temple.

Minquan Street, the thoroughfare I found in a memorable but depressing state a decade ago, has been reborn as a touristy “old street.” It's also reverted to the name it bore when it was the town's business hub: Sanjiaoyong Street (三角湧老街).

Several of the redbrick Baroque-style shop-houses are more than a century old, but they look as good as new thanks to the 2004-2006 government-funded renovation.

In keeping with the declared doctrine of “original architecture, original materials,” hundreds of mud bricks were made from scratch so internal partitions could be rebuilt. Sagging roofs were straightened. However, residents were permitted to build additional floors so long as facades were preserved and the classical appearance of the street maintained.

The results are certainly impressive and the street is thriving once again.

HOW TO GET THERE

Several bus services link Taipei with Sanxia, including No.. 275 and 908, both which run frequently to/from Jingan MRT Station. Buses between Sanxia and Taoyuan go via Yingge which is useful if you want to visit the latter town's famous ceramics museum.

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