A secret place in a popular area: Two Phoenix Gorge Waterfall

The steps climb stiffly for a few minutes then flatten out, passing a small Earth God shrine and contouring a pleasant, steep, wooded hillside high above a tributary of the Keelung River. Presently a small temple stands behind the path, complete with a pool of 'sacred' water and fountain. Climb the steps beside the temple and keep left at the top.

A second, much larger temple soon stands beside the path. The gardens in front of the building, which were once very attractive, are a bit overgrown and neglected now, but if you can find a clearing in the tall undergrowth, there are fine views looking down over the upper Keelung River Valley. Pass in front of the temple and keep to the concrete path ahead, which in a few minutes descends a steep set of the steps to the foot of the waterfall.

The thick vegetation in front of the old viewing platform halfway down on the left is in need of a good trim, and there's only a partial view of the lovely cascade from this point, so continue down to the bottom (taking great care on the spray-drenched rocks, which are covered in algae and treacherously slippery in places) for a view of the complete twenty-meter-high fall, which is a fine sight after rain.

Two Phoenix Gorge Waterfall is far from being among the highest of the area's waterfalls, and if you're looking for something more impressive, try one of the falls on the Sandiaoling Waterfall Walk nearby, but for sheer peace and quiet, it's hard to beat this place. There are plenty of dry rocks to sit on in the glen below the falls, and the stream creates several shallow but crystal-clear pools perfect for a paddle. Now that's my idea of an (almost) perfect short walk for the oh-so-hot days of Taipei's long, long summer!

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