A secret place in a popular area: Two Phoenix Gorge Waterfall

Today, certain areas such as Jingtung (菁桐), Pingsi (平溪)and Shifen (十分) are overrun on fine weekends by day trippers from Taipei, many of whom arrive here via the quaint single-track Pingsi Branch Line(平溪支線), which has come through economic downturn and severe, typhoon-inflicted damage to become (in recent years) a huge tourist draw.

In times past, however, miners and their families were the main human inhabitants of this wonderful corner of Taipei County. Completed in 1921, the railroad was originally built to transport the 'black gold' which was dug from the area's many mineshafts which now languish, forgotten and reclaimed by the jungle.

Coal production might have been big business a century ago, but although the industry left its mark, it didn't even begin to ruin the magnificent scenic beauty of the area (thank goodness), and it's to explore the area's many waterfalls, picnic sites, old settlements, and — especially — to send a traditional 'sky lantern' up into the heavens that tourists come here by the thousands on weekends.

For all its newfound popularity as a leisure destination, there are loads of chances to get away from the crowds and enjoy the countryside in solitary peace. A favorite short trip is the walk out to the beautiful waterfall above Sandiaoling village, known variously as Two Phoenix Gorge Waterfall (雙鳳谷瀑布) or Fantasy Waterfall (夢幻瀑布). Maybe it was just luck, but on each of my six or seven visits to this delightful spot, I've had the glen below the falls completely to myself, barring the occasional monk or nun from the nearby monastery.

Getting to the waterfall is fairly easy. First get to Sandiaoling (三貂嶺) Station, on the Taipei to Ilan line (although only very slow, stopping services call there: allow at least an hour for the journey from Taipei). Leave the tiny ticket office of the station and follow the path between the river and the railway tracks towards the bridge and tunnel ahead. When the train tracks diverge in a few hundred meters (the ones to the right are of the Pingsi Branch Line, which lies along the scenic headwaters of the Keelung River), keep left, crossing the bridge.

1|2|Next Page>>

SharePrintEmail

Write a Comment

Terms

Enter your comments - 3000 characters max

Type in image code

Submit

 Receive China Post promos
 Respond to this email