Taking an adventure in the Sanmin Bat Cave

Paying a visit to the wonderful Sanmin Bat Cave, which was once one of the best short adventures of northern Taiwan, is a pretty straightforward affair these days, since the local authorities, seeking to open this imposing natural curiosity to everyone, changed the route of the access trail to the cavern, bypassing a long wade up the slippery stream bed, and the steep descent and ascent (with fixed ropes) of several rock faces.

Today the hardest part of the fifteen minute walk from the parking area to the cave is a short but stiff climb along the brick-surfaced lane at the beginning. At the top of this hill, next to a multicolored metal observation tower (which gives a good view back down the valley towards Sanmin Village), steps lead quickly and gently down to the stream edge, and a wide, level, surfaced path leads up the gorge until, after a slight rise, the great black hole of Taiwan's biggest cave mouth suddenly looms in front.

Some of the wildness of this amazing spot has undoubtedly gone since getting there became rather easier, and putting picnic tables in the cave definitely doesn't improve the scene, but it's still a mightily impressive place, and well worth a visit. Especially as it forms the focal point of a short and easy but very beautiful trail linking it to another impressive natural cavern: Guanyin Cave.

Sanmin Bat Cave (三民蝙蝠洞) lies three kilometers from the village of the same name, near the beginning of the North Cross-island Highway (北橫,). A three-kilometer long road from the village (signposted) leads to a parking area, from where it's an easy 15-20 minute stroll to the cave, beside which an attractive waterfall cascades through an unusual natural hole cut in the rock.

After heavy rain, it's quite a fine sight, and the pool at the base of the fall is great for swimming, which is exactly what a local aboriginal family was doing when we last visited the cave.

Now follow the trail back out of the gorge, and turn left at the observation tower, along the brick-paved lane once more. This intrusively man-made 'improvement' isn't a promising start to the hike, but in just a few minutes, the surfaced lane ends, becoming a narrow but clear dirt trail surfaced in black plastic mesh, which ensures the trail will be passable even after heavy rain, yet doesn't interfere with the beauty of the lush, jungle surroundings too much.

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 Taking an adventure in the Sanmin Bat Cave 
Behind the large and rather plain temple buildings, Guanyin Cave remains atmospheric and mysterious. (By Richard Saunders, Special to The China Post)

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