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Exploring Xichi's rich environs in a day trip

Of all the satellite towns surrounding Taipei City, Xichi (汐止), which is to the east of the metropolis and located on the road towards Keelung (基隆), has undoubtedly received the worst press. The low-lying town (the name means "limit of the tide" since it lies on the upper limit of the tidal Keelung River) has long had a reputation for suffering flood damage, a dubious reputation that came to a dramatic head with astounding TV footage of local houses under as much as one story of floodwater, following the deluge dumped on northern Taiwan by Typhoon Nari in 2001.

The building of a levee along the river in 2002 seems to have cured the town of its unfortunate affliction, and in recent years some development has given the area a welcome facelift, but at first glance, Xichi appears to be free of anything capable of attracting the curious hiker or day tripper from nearby Taipei, let alone further afield.

In fact, Xichi's environs are rich in beautiful scenery, including one of Taipei County's most enchanting natural lakes, a smattering of shapely summits, three sets of waterfalls, and several quite extraordinary curiosities, so there's no shortage of reasons for making the short shuttle by train from Taipei to Xichi's bright new station.

Most day-trippers and (especially) hikers are drawn to take the train to Xichi in order to climb the deceptively easy-looking eminence behind the town, known (for reasons not at first apparent) as Big Sharp Mountain (大尖山), and it's a very worthwhile hike. Make a day to take the trip, and make sure to include visits to a fine waterfall and the extraordinary temple of Zihang Tang, which houses the remarkable, incorruptible remains of a former monk.

When planning a hike for the weekend, it's natural to hope for fair weather, but just this once, pray for heavy rain before climbing Big Sharp Mountain. The deluge won't affect the quality of the wide, stepped paths to a great degree, but it will make one of the scenic highlights of the walk, Hsiufeng Waterfall(秀峰瀑布), worth seeing.

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Exploring Xichi's rich environs in a day trip
The complex of temples at Zihang Tang, recently much enlarged, houses the incorruptible remains of a former monk. (By Richard Saunders, Special to The China Post)

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