The Sandiaoling Waterfall Walk offers a terrific trio of waterfalls

The trail crosses the stream about fifty meters above the head of Hegu Waterfall, and dives back into the woods and a deep, steep sided gorge as it approaches Sandiaoling Waterfall itself. Another twenty minutes and the lofty white plume of the waterfall appears through the trees ahead. The wooden viewing platform at the base of the falls is a welcome recent addition, giving a fine view of the water as it plunges well clear of the cliff into a pile of rock at the bottom.

For the best view of the waterfall and the spectacularly overhanging horseshoe-shaped cliff off which the stream hurtles, follow the trail as it climbs high up the side of the gorge below the fall, and turn right along a narrow trail that soon joins the cliff and then lies underneath the overhang, eventually passing right behind the falling water, for a unique view out through the curtain of water and down the gorge.

Following the main trail as it climbs out of the gorge, it soon reaches the bottom of a chunky rope ladder made of thick logs. It's an awkward ascent, but while struggling upwards, it's worth remembering that getting up is a good deal easier than formerly, when hikers had to rely on fixed chains and footholds to scale the cliff.

At the top, a fine surprise awaits in the form of a third waterfall less than a hundred meters upstream from the lofty drop below. Niya Waterfall is an almost perfect, slightly smaller replica of Sandiaoling Waterfall, complete with horseshoe cliff and prodigious overhang (although unfortunately it's not possible to stand behind this fall).

The trail escapes from the ravine made by the waterfall by scaling a metal ladder (again a great improvement, safety-wise on the former ropes and slippery footholds), and in a few meters rather unexpectedly joins a concrete path.

Turn left and in about forty minutes the path leads back to civilization and a road at the tiny settlement of Sinliao. Turn left here and the road finally descends to Shifen, an immensely popular stop-off on the Pingsi branch railway line. Be warned though: the weekend crowds milling around the town and surrounding area are likely to come as a shock after the peace and quiet of this fine walk.

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The Sandiaoling Waterfall Walk offers a terrific trio of waterfalls
Niya Waterfall is actually the smallest of the three waterfalls, although the thirty meter-high plunge is an impressive sight after rain. (By Richard Saunders, Special to The China Post)

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