Cloud Forest Waterfalls: An idyllic summer retreat

With such evocative place names as Full Moon Mountain, Cloud Heart Falls and North Piercing Heaven Mountain, the area south of Sansia (三峽) near Taipei County's western border promises lots for the hiker, and it doesn't disappoint, with some excellent walking opportunities to waterfalls, 2,000-year-old trees, and several challenging mountain summits.

The area is by no means undiscovered, and Manyueyuan (滿月園) National Forest Recreation Area is one of Taipei County's most popular beauty spots, thanks to its stunning setting, group of five beautiful waterfalls and relatively easy access.

The waterfalls of Manyueyuan are by far the best-known in the area, but they're certainly not the only ones. On the southern flank of Mount Beichatian (北插天山), several hours' rough hike from the nearest road a series of waterfalls including the beautiful Bridal Veil Fall lies hidden, while beside the road between Sansia and the Forest Recreation Area lie a pair of tiny but pretty cascades which would make a good destination for a summer picnic.

Finest of all, though are the three wonderful Cloud Forest Waterfalls, set in deep jungle just a few kilometers (as the crow flies) from the waterfalls at Manyueyuan. Despite becoming better known in recent years, they remain a haven of peace and beauty at weekends, when crowds descend on the better-known falls nearby.

Getting to the Cloud Forest Waterfalls is pretty easy: Simply follow the brown road signs from Sansia pointing to Manyueyuan, and you'll soon be in the beautiful valley of the Dabao Stream. About three kilometers from the entrance to Manyueyuan, turn left at a camping site rejoicing by the name of Happy Valley (樂樂谷) towards the tiny settlement of Siungkong (熊空), and then take the first road on the right, about a kilometer down the road, beside a small corner store.

It's possible to drive right up to the main trailhead (about 1.5 kilometers away) but it's a lovely walk, following a picturesque stream rushing through a wooded glen below the road. After about 500 meters the road bends sharply left, away from the stream and starts climbing.

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Cloud Forest Waterfalls: An idyllic summer retreat
The Sisters' Falls, the lowest of the three waterfalls, is reached by a rough scramble along the bank of the stream. (By Richard Saunders, Special to The China Post)

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