Hiking in Wantan Old Trail in Pinglin

Upstream from Dream Lake the path passes an old stone hut and turns away from the stream, climbing briefly but stiffly into an ugly, stunted wood above the river. Persevere, however, because the scenery soon improves greatly as the trail passes a couple of waterfalls where tributary streams pour off shapely rocky bluffs and cross the trail en route to the larger stream below, shaded by fine old trees hung with huge bird's nest ferns.

In several places, the trail rejoins the river, which widens into several further secluded pools, the last being a long and placid stretch of deep water, just before the trail finally returns to civilization at a lane through the tiny settlement of Wantan, (nothing more than a few houses and a small temple).

From here, the alternatives are returning the same way (making a 4-5 hour walk in all), continuing eastwards (a network of trails from here connects all the way with the east coast at Waiao (外傲), a walk that would take a full day), or doing what we did: Connecting with the nearby Wushan Old Trail (烏山古道), whose well hidden trailhead lies behind a nearby residence, climbing over the flank of the Black Mountain and down the other side to connect with Beishih Old Trail to return to the car.

This worked out at a long (if rewarding) 7-8 hour walk, which is probably a bit much in summer. The next time I come here, I'll be strolling no further than Dream Lake, parking myself there for the day, and venturing no further than the cool, pure waters of that wonderful spot.

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