The unique temple of Silver Stream Cave

Lu Dong Bing is worshipped at nearby Chinan Temple (指南宮), one of Taipei’s biggest and most popular temples, which commands a magnificent position high in the hills above Muzha. The temple is reachable by a fine walk over the hills from Silver Stream Cave. A path veers to the right just below the cave and climbs stiffly to the top of the falls, where it rejoins the stream.

Keep to the right bank of the stream at a fast-approaching junction, and the path, now just a dirt trail, climbs (steeply in places) through the jungle to the top of the ridge in about an hour. It’s a surprisingly wild and secluded walk, and it’s unusual to see more than a couple of other hikers, even on weekends.

Continue straight down the far side of the ridge, however, and civilization returns all too soon. The trail, now paved once more (watch out for the slippery covering of algae!) emerges onto a road in Muzha’s famous Maokong area, opposite the upper station of Taipei’s magnificent Gondola, which provides a scenically beautiful and relaxing coda to the trip.

Alternatively, a spot of tea drinking would make a perfect end to the walk; there are plenty of tea houses (most commanding magnificent views over Taipei city far below). Simply head right for a few minutes along the road.

One final alternative, for true hikers with energy still to burn, is to follow the so-called Tea Leaf Old Trail down the hillside and up the far side to Chinan Temple opposite. The weekend crowds that gather here are likely to come as a shock after the seclusion of the trail above Silver Stream Cave, but a visit to this magnificent temple is a fine addition to this extremely varied walk, before a speedy return to the city by either gondola or bus.

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