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Shue Jian Forest Recreation Area: A victim of its own success

Leaving both car and dog behind, we set off further into the mountains, following the unpaved forest road as it contours the mountainside, towards the trailheads for Mounts Dongxishui (東流水山) and Beikang (北坑山), the summits of which afford the greatest views over the mountains and across to the Holy Ridgeline.

If we’d known earlier, we’d have stopped off at the police station in Zhong Xing (中興) on the way out and have picked up a mountain permit (which takes some ID, five minutes and NT$10 to process). In the event, however, it seemed no great hardship walking the hour out to the first trailhead along the road. We thoroughly enjoyed the first half-hour of the walk; in places the forest beside the road opens up, giving views across to the mountain bastion across the way, although it was rapidly disappearing behind an all-enveloping wall of cloud and mist.

And then the cars started coming. First a couple, then whole convoys of them clutching those pesky mountain permits, all belching out choking exhaust fumes and shattering the peace of this rare place. It was pretty obvious the best part of the day was over, and as we made our way back, dodging vehicles as they roared round the corner and picking up bits of trash thrown down by thoughtless day trippers, it was hard not to consider the fate of this pristine slice of wilderness, now that it’s been opened up to the car-driving masses.

That ranger’s verbal attack on us and poor Gem back at the visitor center had seemed strangely overzealous at the time, but now I think I understand better. The rules were written to allow him to keep pet dogs from destroying the pristine beauty of Shue Jian; sadly, however, he has no control over the crowds of noisy day trippers that seem destined to ruin this special place, now that it’s reopened once more.

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 Shue Jian Forest Recreation Area: A victim of its own success 
The forest recreation area lies on the western edge of the wild Shei-Pa National Park. (By Richard Saunders, Special to The China Post)

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