Nanchuang: Dark-skinned dwarves last possible hideout in Miaoli

But the chanting of their shamans and the bountiful offerings of food and rice wine may all be in vain, for some claim the “short, dark pygmies” still lurk in the inaccessible gorges of this mountainous area.

I was even informed by one local man, that the gangster fugitive Chang Hsu-Ming, hiding out in the deep mountains, perhaps met his end in a violent encounter with the resourceful “shorties.”

Over a tasty glass of xiao me-jeou, he recounted how the sound of machine gun fire echoed through the valleys, followed by the unmistakable sound of blow-darts whishing through the air. He pontificated that while it was possible that “an I-hay-ren or two” bit the dust in this malicious and tragic meeting, the short black humans were far too quick and surefooted to be taken out by a modern day gangster.

Besides, if they could survive the trap that the Saisiats of long ago set for them, they could make it through anything.

As we hiked through the enchanting mist-shrouded forest of the central mountain range, I had the unmistakable feeling that we were being shadowed (though, admittedly, that could have been from macaques swinging in the trees, or from a hungry clouded leopard stalking us).

Several times I glanced over my shoulder when I felt I was being watched, but all I saw was the mist, swirling ever so slightly, as if ruffled by movement. I decided against hopping the fence to investigate.

And while you are likely to encounter an assortment of lizards scurrying across the path on this hike, it is highly unlikely that you will see a snake -you can thank the dwarves for that, having dispelled the serpents long ago when they ruled this area.

Available at both the beginning and end of the trail are vast supplies of sweet rice wine, brewed locally by the merry aboriginals. A delicious bottle will not set you back more than NY$200, and the laobans will gladly pour you a sample of any flavor you might be interested in purchasing. This unique Taiwan alcohol will help settle your nerves after such close possible encounters with the elusive dwarves.

Down at the foot of the mountains a cold, fresh river weaves its way through a small village dotted with quaint restaurants and shops. If you’re waiting for a reservation or feel too full to drive after eating, you can take a dip in this invigorating waterway. Hold onto some rocks and dunk your head in the gushing mountain current and you’ll feel like one hundred-thousand NT dollars afterwards!

Further on down the road back towards civilization you’ll find small towns offering delectable, if salty, Hakkanese treats and a myriad of handicrafts. There are also some impressive temples worth seeing in the area. Also, a ‘famous’ cow farm is one of the focal points of Nanchuang, and it is here that you watch one of these venerable animals being milked (and even squeeze the teats yourself if you’d like), and later taste some ice cream that came squirting out of their nipples just days before.

So if you’re in the mood to ‘head for the hills’ for some pleasant nature strolling, are interested in learning about native folklore, enjoy bathing in clean rivers and want to devour some fine grub, get out to Nanchuang, in Miaoli County, and keep a low eye peeled for the incredible “I-hay-ren”!

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