Ghosts and Gold - Hsinchu to Jioufen

Being a bit spooked, frightened by poisonous snakes and thinking of the paranormal, we bustled out of there. Further along the road are various pit stops, offering food, drinks and rest. Another good spot to get a sighting of the supernatural is the Yeliu (野柳) formations.

Close to Green Bay outside Keelung (基隆) is this popular tourist spot. You can venture to see the famed eroded rock formations in the bay, a favorite for geologists, photographers and seekers trying to get a glimpse of a long lost figure. Supposedly, if you stare long enough, the strange eroded rocks will be reminiscent of familiar things, the most famous being the bust of Aphrodite. Alas, we sought, we stared and we left without a clear vision of her.

It is said Aphrodite could make any man fall in love with her by them just laying eyes on her. As it turned out, many were there seeking, but only some believed they had seen her. You need to judge for yourself. [N 25° 9'42.91", E 121°45'57.27"]

Our last stop and destination awaited us just in time for afternoon tea. The small town of Jioufen was catapulted into fame by the 1982 classic movie City of Sadness. This is not the only movie that used Jioufen as a location, my favorite being the Story of a Bride (八番坑口的新娘). This movie tells the story of a police officer, sent to an almost abandoned Jioufen after the scuttle for gold wore off and the town was only a desolated harbor. [Jioufen: N 25° 6'24.75", E 121°51'26.27"].

In recent years, Jioufen picked up in popularity, mainly due to the movies, but also because of the glimpse of the past and the rich history. Jioufen is also famous for its traditional teahouses and aficionados will have a hard time choosing the best brew. We set our sights on finding a piece of gold of our own, if not in real gold, at least in culture, history and shopping.

During the day, Jioufen is a crowded mass of people. It seems everybody is still rushing somewhere, but the gold has long been depleted. It is a one street affair, with shops, snacks and funky smells. This is another good reason to stay the night. Later in the afternoon, the tour buses disappear and the stomping feet retire, which invites the calming ghosts of the old town to return. Take a stroll in the evening breeze, talk to eccentric shop owners and marvel over the finest of tea.

A famous saying from the American Gold Rush during the 1930’s was: Gold is where you find it. Same goes for ghosts. We came looking and found a bit of both. We found gold in the value of a rich culture and history, and ghosts in the imaginations of those who dare to seek them.

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