The clear springs of Chingchuan

Up the hill from the parking lot, I reach a Catholic church that is decorated with colorful mosaics and murals. Next to the church is the Chingchuan Fountain of Youth Hostel (“Ching Chuan Shan Chuang”) This clean and spacious structure is nestled among pine trees, overlooking a large basketball court.

The first floor of the hostel has a large dining area and kitchen. Guests are able to do their own cooking, if they wish. Upstairs, there are several large Japanese-style rooms for groups. There is even a penthouse of sorts on the third floor, with a large balcony overlooking the waterfall and valley below. (For reservations call 03-5856026; Web site: www.chingchuanhostel.com)

Only a few minutes’ walk down the road from Chingchuan Hostel is Old Wang's Restaurant and a stained glass studio run by Yawee, a tribal man from Orchid Island. Both religious and aboriginal stained glass art hang from his display window.

Another half-hour trek brings me to Mindoyo on the opposite side of the river, where there is a traditional Atayal village. Aborigine woodcarvers, farmers and gardeners can be seen here, going about their work just as they have been doing for hundreds of years.

The rolling hills with their bright green trees are perfect for trekking. I pass a group of hikers, who remind me that the aromatic buds of the tung oil trees will soon blossom, covering the paths like snow. The hikers joke that if I get lost, the fireflies will light my way, and I can listen to the croaking of the frogs to find the river.

If I kept going up the main road from Chingchuan, I would pass the Eight Immortals Waterfall and eventually get to Shei-Pa National Park. But I am content for now to rest here in Chingchuan, listening to the sound of the waterfall and floating in the hot springs. I’m looking forward to some warm spring days soon, when I can come to watch the fireflies and hear the frogs croak.

How to get there:

From the second cross-island highway, take the Chutung turn-off. Continue to Sya Gung Gwan, and from there go straight in the direction of Wufeng. Continue about 10 minutes past the tunnel to the village of Chingchuan and follow the signs.

It takes about an hour to reach Chingchuan from the Chutung turn-off. There are also buses from Chutung to Chingchuan.

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