The clear springs of Chingchuan

“Chingchuan” can be translated as “Pure Springs.” The clear mineral waters of this village are reputed to be the best in Taiwan. From the smoothness they create on my skin and the relaxation they give to my body and spirit, I tend to agree.

Chingchuan Hot Springs is a large, rambling structure set next to a flowing river that divides the village. The two halves of the village are connected by suspension bridges. One of the bridges, brightly lit with soft lights in the evening, leads from the parking lot to the hot springs.

The hot springs include two hot water pools — one inside and the other under the stars — a cold pool, and several private Japanese-style hot tubs. I chose the outdoor pool, beside a small waterfall, which appears to be the hottest.

As I soak in healing waters that gurgle in time to the Mando-pop tunes on the sound system, I wonder if there is any place on earth as comfortable as this. The price is reasonable, too — only NT$150 for large pools and NT$300 for a private tub. Groups get special rates. More information can be found at 03-5856037.

Feeling thoroughly clean and invigorated after my hot spring bath, I head upstairs to the second floor and find a very elegant restaurant and coffee shop. For around NT$200 I can choose from a set menu or have hotpot. I notice there are also mouth-watering pastries to go with the coffee or tea.

Since Chingchuan is a tribal area, the entire atmosphere of the hot springs is rustic and natural. From the cordial smiles of the Atayal youth that greet me, to the many forms of aboriginal artwork found along the paths and at the nearby school and church, you know you are in a tribal area, far removed from the stress of city life.

On my way to the hot springs, while it was still light, I visited the new memorial to Chang Hsui-liang, the famous "Young Marshall," who was kept under house arrest in Chingchuan for some 14 years. Just up the hill from where he stayed is the former house of San Mao, one of Taiwan's most famous writers.

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