Hiking to a Japanese-built fort on Mt. Li Dong

Pick up local route 60, a twisting mountain road that climbs strenuously to the tiny settlement of Yulao (宇老) at a pass in the mountains, a thousand vertical meters above. From here, an unclassified and deeply potholed side road follows the contour of the mountainside northeastwards for five kilometers to the trailhead below the fort at Mt. Li Dong Shelter (李崠山莊). Standing beside the road, it’s difficult to miss this richly eccentric place. The shelter is a hodge-podge of ornamental pavilions, covered terraces, corridors and even a covered footbridge crossing the road.

Walk up the covered ramp from the road into the complex and you’ll almost certainly meet the shelter’s friendly owner, a retired army soldier who collects a modest fee of NT$20 for the privilege of sweating up the steep, hour-long trail to the fort. He’ll probably also offer a cup of his special hot tea, apparently brought over from China. It’s very bitter, but will probably be welcome after the haul up to the fort and back.

Well marked with signposts and thick clusters of plastic trail ribbons, the trail up the mountainside leaves from the back of the shelter and immediately locks into an endless system of steep zigzags. At least the lovely woodland and occasional views (if the weather is clear) take the mind off the climb. After about half an hour, the trail meets a stony track that leads to the summit of Mt. Li Dong and the fort.

Follow either the winding track, or take the much steeper shortcuts that intersect it at intervals, and about an hour and 400 meters of vertical ascent after leaving the shelter, the gateway of Mt. Li Dong Fort looms out of the fast-encroaching forest. Even half-ruined, it’s a fine and atmospheric sight, although the empty shell that greets the walker once inside is less impressive.

There’s a fantastic view over the central mountain range if you climb a few meters up the ladder serving one of the several aerials inside the fort, or manage to find a window in the thick forest cover that now blankets the summit. Most of the big players in northern Taiwan, such as Taiwan’s second and fifth highest mountains (Snow Mountain and Mt. Nanhuda), are visible on a clear day.

Even if the mist has already rolled in, defeating any ambitions of enjoying the superb panorama, the dead silence and slightly eerie atmosphere of the place make it easy to linger awhile, before heading back for a cup of warming bitter tea and a chat down below.

1|2

SharePrintEmail

Write a Comment

Terms

Enter your comments - 3000 characters max

Type in image code

Submit

 Receive China Post promos
 Respond to this email