Chihben River Gorge retains its beauty

This is not much of a deterrent, as the river is not too deep at this point. Just roll up your pant legs to your knees and you probably won't get too wet. Beyond the slab is a fantastic waterfall, which, even in the dry season, spews a small tropical cascade. The water beneath it is plenty deep and safe for swimming, and the stone beach opposite the falls makes for a nice place to unpack a lunch and pop open a can of Taiwan beer.

This river can be traced back for days, reaching into what might be described as terra incognita. I have personally traced it a full two days up, and it just keeps getting prettier and prettier: more waterfalls, crystal pools, rapids, and torrents that shoot between narrow walls of marble. Swimming, therefore, is an essential skill if one intends to make this a small expedition.

A little bit of climbing over rock ledges, boulders and ridge tops will also be necessary if you're planning to set up camp more than an hour or two from the starting point, as the valley narrows into an awesome chasm of marble and quartz that can only be passed by swimming up the torrent or ascending the mountain at the bend a bit further downstream.

On previous trips, we have seen monkeys in several areas of the gorge, as well as dead muntjacs and huge snakes. People who live near the valley claim that leopard cats are fairly common in the area, and for ornithologists, Muller's Barbet and the Maroon Oriole are two species to look out for. Wild boars are also said to be a threat.

Confusing signs, angry dogs, private property, getting wet and some guts for climbing; maybe the place will never change.

HOW TO GET THERE:

From the main road in Chihben Hot Springs, go just past the Chihben National Forest Recreation Park. Then keep heading straight up a road that climbs through forests until you see the sign for Valley Hot Springs.

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