Visiting neglected waterfalls in Ilan

Nearby, just a couple of kilometers south of the mouth of Hsuehshan Tunnel, the Monkey Cave Waterfall (猴洞瀑布) is another one of Ilan’s many lovely but neglected scenic spots. Much smaller and less impressive than Xinfeng Falls (but also much easier to reach), the Monkey Cave cascades are another fine place for playing in the water or for a picnic, and a lack of signposts pointing the way to the waterfall ensures that, despite being very close to the main Taipei to Ilan route, the place remains quiet even on sunny weekends.

The waterfalls lie just a couple of kilometers north of the popular hot spring resort of Jiaoshi (礁溪). Follow provincial route nine and turn off it about three kilometers north of Jiaoshi town into the little settlement of Baishihjiao (白石腳). Now look for Nanxing Temple (南興宮), but take care as the lanes are extremely narrow. Park the car beside the temple and take the trail next to it. In a minute or two a large concrete levee lies in front. Climb onto it, turn left and follow the stone path on top for another minute or two to the base of the waterfall.

It’s unclear where Monkey Cave Waterfall got its name (there’s no cave here, and I haven’t seen any monkeys in the area after three visits), but it’s a picturesque spot, with a stream tumbling down a long, sloping rock face about a hundred meters long in a series of small waterfalls and slides before one final, larger drop into a small rock pool at the bottom.

A very steep set of steps cut into the rock climb to the top of the bluff, giving close-up views of the falling water, and are a favorite with active kids. The reward for the short, sharp climb is a peaceful little glen at the top where the stream flows placidly through several shallow pools, and a fine place for a hot summer’s day picnic.

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