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Lugang: A taste of bygone times

Another little shop that should not be missed is one that sells local sweets. They offer many samples of their specialty cakes that crumble into a soft powder when one bites into them, available in almond, green bean, peanut, strawberry and chocolate flavors. Another of their specialties is “one bite cookies,” cute little savory cookies that come in a nice gift box. I bought dong gua gao, a unique chewy candy/cake. It's a bit like a sandwich, with a cakey substance for the top and bottom, and a chewy candy substance in the middle.

Though I had little time to take a close look at them, Lugang has also gained quite a reputation for its historical temples, including Lugang Tian Hou Temple (鹿港天后宮), which is the oldest temple in Taiwan dedicated to the “Empress of Heaven.” It was built in 1664 and began undergoing renovation in 1922. The temple holds many impressive statues of various gods.

A ways outside the brick streets of the old town are several popular oyster restaurants. Their oyster omelets for NT$50 consist almost entirely of oysters, and the noodle soup with oysters (at the same price) also has more oysters than noodles or soup.

And not far from the oyster restaurant is a stand selling yet another of Lugang's delicious snacks, Yu Wan. This unique snack consists of a large meatball with a taro paste wrapped around it. It's steamed and served hot in a brown sauce, perfect for a cold evening. Then for dessert, at another nearby stand for only NT$6 each, are Niu She Bing “Cow's tongue cakes” (only so called because of the shape) flat, oval cakes with a flaky texture.

The town seems to become fairly quiet after dark, which is good because the buses back to Taipei leave fairly early. To get back to Taipei, one can either take one of the less frequent buses from Lugang that costs around NT$300 or one of the frequent buses to Taichung for only NT$80. Then, if one goes on a weekday, buses from Taichung to Taipei are NT$80 (on weekends, the bus from Taichung is about NT$170).

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 Lugang: A taste of bygone times 
One of the many “hundred-year-old” shops. (By Susan Swier, Special to The China Post)

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