Puzih’s Peitian Temple

However, in Chiayi County’s Puzih (朴子市) City there is an excellent example of an as-yet-unrestored temple that attracts a constant steam of worshipers: the Peitian Temple (配天宮), which is dedicated to the goddess of the sea and one of Taiwan’s most popular deities. The shrine dates back to the late 17th century — though there are at least two versions of how it came to be founded.

According to a bilingual information board I read when I first visited the Peitian Temple in late 2004, the original Matsu (媽祖) icon was brought to this location in 1684 by Shi Lang (施琅), the Qing Dynasty general who overthrew the anti-Manchu regime established in Tainan by Cheng Cheng-kung (鄭成功).

That information board still stands in front of the temple, but it has apparently been superseded by a newer, more prominent sign that states that the shrine dates from 1687, when “a devout disciple from Dongshih (東石)” brought the effigy over from Fujian, the mainland Chinese province where the Matsu cult started.

The disciple was carrying the icon, but after resting at the spot now occupied by the Peitian Temple, he found it had become too heavy to lift. He concluded that Matsu wished to stay here, and a shrine was built to house the effigy.

The mention of Shi Lang made me wonder why it is, to the best of my knowledge, that no roads or schools are named for him in Taiwan — despite his role in reuniting Taiwan with the Chinese mainland. By contrast, Cheng Cheng-kung is widely celebrated. Could it be because Chiang Kai-shek and his family despised the Qing regime, and presumably loathed anyone who served the Manchus?

The last major renovation of the Peitian Temple was in 1915, though the Bell Tower and Drum Tower were constructed just after World War II. As you might expect, there are modern accretions: Power lines, a payphone, a vending machine that dispenses soft drinks, odd cables, and spotlights. Since 2003, the temple has been a county-level official relic.

An elderly worshiper told me that the censer taking pride of place in the main chamber is about a hundred years old, and was a gift from the Japanese colonial authorities then controlling Taiwan.

In a small chamber on the right, near the back of the temple, there is a black-and-white reproduction of a portrait of Wang De-lu (王得祿). Wang was a hero in the mid-nineteenth century — a local boy who rose high in the ranks of Imperial China’s military.

The temple’s door paintings are faded, flaking, and heavily soiled — but attractive nonetheless. Look at the roof, and you’ll notice dozens of doll-sized figurines — some on horseback — engaged in martial arts. Inside there’s a map of downtown Puzih that shows the route taken by Matsu when she is paraded through the streets on festival days.

Keep looking around, and you’ll find other odd and interesting features. It’s worth spending time at the Peitian Temple — and it’s worth getting here before its next, inevitable renovation.

GETTING TO PUZIH:

Buses leave for Puzih from both the bus station immediately in front of Chiayi Train Station, and from the station five minutes’ walk away on Jhongshan Road(中山路). The former has the advantage of a clear bilingual timetable, but the latter offers more frequent services.

Routes and fares vary slightly; journey time is usually around 45 minutes, and a one-way ticket costs around NT$65. There are also several buses each day between Puzih and Sinying (新營)in Tainan County. Puzih is small enough to get around on foot.

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