Meinong’s valley of butterflies

Butterflies may not caught the public imagination in the way certain bird species have, but threats to the habitats of rare lepidopterans have inspired conservationists to protest against some major infrastructure projects.

More than a decade ago, the central government decided to build a dam in Kaohsiung County that would have led to the destruction and flooding of Meinong’s Yellow Butterfly Valley (美濃黃蝶翠谷). In 2000, however, the incoming administration announced the plan was being put on indefinite hold.

There are other examples of the authorities being sympathetic to the plight of butterflies. Earlier this year, one lane of Freeway No. 3 was closed, and an ultraviolet-lit passage under the road created, so that Milkweed butterflies could more safely complete their spring migration in Yunlin County’s Linnei Township (雲林縣林內鄉).

Agriculture and urbanization have destroyed or damaged many butterfly habitats, but the vast number of Lemon Emigrants in Meinong’s Yellow Butterfly Valley is due in part to man’s interfering with nature.

In the early days of the Japan’s 1895-1945 occupation of Taiwan, the colonial authorities planted Hophornbeam trees around Shuangsi (雙溪). The wood, which is exceptionally hard and heavy, was to be used for making railway ties and gun buttstocks. The leaves of this tree are a favorite food of the Lemon Emigrant’s larva. Typically, caterpillars will devour all the greenery on a tree, leaving only the trunk and branches.

The Lemon Emigrant (Catopsilia pomona), also called the Common Emigrant or Lemon Migrant, is a medium-sized butterfly found in many parts of Asia and Australia. In terms of color, it is actually quite greenish. As its name suggests, it usually migrates. However, Meinong’s Yellow Butterfly Valley differs from the Purple Butterfly Valley in that the former’s butterflies do not migrate anywhere, and spend their entire life cycle within the watershed.

According to some sources, the number of butterflies here sometimes exceeds fifty million. Not all of them are Lemon Emigrants; in the course of two visits last year, I spotted black, blue, purple, yellow, white, brown, and orange butterflies. According to one count, 110 butterfly species have been spotted here.

There are bilingual signs to valley from downtown Meinong. Follow them until you come to a large, modern temple. Turn right here; go past the Shuangsi Tropical Viviparous Forest. When you come to a fork in the road, stay close to the river. Keep going to the where a small bridge crosses a side stream; the surfaced road continues no more than another 50 meters, but rough farmers’ tracks go on up the hillside.

From May until July, you’re sure to see small groups of yellow butterflies lapping minerals from shallow pools. If you’re lucky, you’ll come across a flying cluster of hundreds. Getting close enough to take good photos is far from easy, however.

On my second visit, I walked upstream through what appeared to be an abandoned orchard. Where the trail became steep, I came across a logjam of timber and boulders caused by a landslide at the confluence of two creeks. Across the water from me was a basking spot, where several Lemon Emigrants were enjoying the sunshine.

As I approached, the butterflies scattered. I had to sit very still for quite some time before they returned and I could take photos. I wasn’t entirely satisfied with the pictures - but I do have very fond memories of being immersed in unspoiled nature, and of being teased by those playful and beautiful butterflies.

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