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Dongjyu Islet preserves 500-year-old historical landmark

Thursday, August 3, 2006
By David Hsu, Special to The China Post


During my four-day trip to Matzu (馬祖), I spent one day on Dongjyu (東莒) Islet. On a sunny morning in June, I went to Fuao (福澳) Port in Nangan (南竿) and took a white shuttle-boat to Dongjyu Islet. The shuttle-boat from Nangan to Dongjyu runs at 7:30 a.m., 11:00 a.m. and 2:30 p.m.

Of the few people on the boat, soldiers were the main passengers. Because Dongjyu Islet is still in the front line against communist China, soldiers are the main inhabitants of the islet.

Dongjyu Islet is 2.63 square kilometers and is at the southernmost end of the Matzu archipelago. I took an approximately 45-minute-long sea journey from Fuao Port to Mengao (猛澳) Port in Dongjyu. The boat ticket costs NT$140.

There is only one around-islet highway on Dongjyu. To circle the islet, it only takes a half-day walk. Most visitors like to rent a motorbike to travel the islet. You cannot stay overnight at a hotel on the islet, you can only stay at someone's home.

There are two villages on Dongjyu - Fujheng (福正) and Tapu (大埔). Due to the sharp reduction of the number of soldiers, Dongjyu's inhabitants have moved to Taiwan and other places to live. As of now, there are almost 200 civilian inhabitants on the island.

The Jyuguang (莒光) islets, including Dongjyu and Sijyu (西莒) islets, were once known as "Eastern Dog" and "Western Dog." The name was derived from the island's supposed resemblance to a crouching dog in the outlet of Min River, and named "Jyuguang" after "Remembering the Spirit of Jyu."

The Mengao Port is the only entrance and exit in Dongjyu. The fine sands are spread out at the port, where warships, passenger vessels and cargo ships are anchored.

Mengao Port is situated southeast of Dongjyu islet, with craggy reefs and walls around the port that reveal the extraordinary nature of the port.

Most of the islet is now open to tourists, except several military bases that, in fact, do not cause any inconvenience to tourists who visit the islet.

In addition to beautiful seashore views, there are two major historical landmarks, the Dongjyu lighthouse and Dapu Stone-Carving.

Dongjyu Lighthouse

If you drive from Mengao Port, along the around-islet highway to Fujheng village, you may see a white, cylindrical, granite lighthouse - the Dongjyu Lighthouse lies on a northeastern hilltop of Dongjyu, also known as the "White-hair town."

The Dongjyu Lighthouse was built during the Ching (清) Dynasty (1871-1872) by Robert Hart and David M. Henderson of Britain for the safety of trading ships entering into Fuchou (福州) City, the capital of Fukien (福建) Province. The Ching Dynasty lost in the Opium War with Britain and was forced to open six ports to English trade ships, with the Fuchou as one of them.The lighthouse is 19.5 meters high and its light is capable of reaching as far as 16.7 nautical miles. Now, the lighthouse has been named a second-grade historical relic.

There are two fog cannons north of the Dongjyu Lighthouse, to accompany its guiding light with the roar of guns. One of the two fog cannons have now been moved to the Nangan Culture Museum for display.

Dapu stone-carving

Dapu Stone-Carving, located at the southern tip of the Dongjyu Islet, was set up on May 15, 1617, by the Wanlin (萬歷) Emperor period of Ming (明) Dynasty. The stone-carving was carved from a 2.78 square meter granite stone. Through this stone-carving, it can be proved that Japanese pirates had invaded the coastal line of Fukien around 500 years ago.

The original stone carving reads that "During the Wanlin period of Ming Dynasty, the next day after mid December, 69 Japanese pirates were caught alive by the general Shen You Rong in the Mountain of East Sand, carved by Fukien Dong Ying Jyu."

In memory of the brave and wise "Sea Wash General" General Shen You Rong, the inhabitants built a pavilion in 1965 to preserve this giant stone-carving.

There is a small park surrounding the stone-carving. Standing in front of the stone-carving, you can see beautiful sea views. In addition, you can also see mainland China on the other side of the sea (about 6000-7000 meters away). A tour guide told me that it was the mouth of Min River of Fukien Province.

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