Fongshan (豐山) is a village in the Alishan township of Chiayi (嘉義) County, southern Taiwan. It lies at the northern end of County Highway 169, the only village inside the Alishan National Scenic Area proper, and this secluded location has kept it off the beaten track for visitors to Alishan.

At an elevation of 750 meters, Fongshan is Taiwan’s highest flatland village. The high mountains ringing the town, some towering over 2,000 meters, have imposed a seclusion that has largely spared the village of commercial contamination and over-development. Visitors may feel as if they have stumbled into a place forgotten by time. The large degree to which age-old traditions have been preserved here is evident in the use of local materials for building and daily use items.

In former times Fongshan was known as Shihgupan (石谷盤), or “stone drum plate,” in reference to the flat rocky terrain that made cultivation an arduous task for the early settlers to this area. Landslides have also been frequent dangers, fostering in the villagers an appreciation of the transitory nature of life.

Today the unusual rocks and landslide-scarred areas are no less a reminder of nature’s power, but they have also become one of Fongshan’s distinctive tourism draws. Although Fongshan has overcome its fair share of natural disasters in recent years, the paradise-like setting of the village has in no way suffered.

Visitors will discover here a land steeped in the full majesty and vitality of nature, with towering peaks, boldly jutting rock formations, unusually shaped trees and cascading waterfalls.

In order to meet the needs of an increasing number of visitors, some modern hostels and homestays have been built in recent years. These hotels and homestays not only provide overnight stay and meals, but also take visitors to travel to the nearby scenic spots by using their four-wheel vans. My travel guide, Liu Chia-chi, who is also the owner of the Fong Chi Hostel, told me that a high-powered four-wheel drive car is the basic transportation tool to take a sight-seeing in the mountainous area of Fongshan.

At Fongshan, you will not only be able to see beautiful scenery, but also have the chance to enjoy special local food. Liu said most of the food they provide to guests are locally grown or raised, such as bamboo shoots, vegetables, mushrooms, chicken and pork.

The first stop Liu showed us was the Shihpangu (石谷盤) Waterfall, about 10 minutes drive from Liu’s hostel. The Shihpangu Waterfall is composed of a group of six falls at the upper course of the Gankeng River. Viewpoints a short distance past the small bridge and at the rest pavilion near a trailhead offer the best vantages of the falls. The first of these is the most impressive, diving 18 meters down a sheer rock face into a deep green plunge pool. Dayanbi (Big Rock Cliff) is also visible in the distance from here.

Past the first waterfall the trail hugs a steep cliff wall with a forest of subcostate crape myrtles lining the other side. There are guide ropes to help visitors safely navigate across this section. The smooth-barked crape myrtles grow in every manner of sculptural shape, earning this area the nickname of “Crape Myrtle Art Forest."

Further along the trail is Dayanbi, a projecting thick-bedded sandstone wall. Ropes have been installed here to help visitors ascend the 40-degree slope of the rock face. There is also a new 120-meter-long suspension bridge nearby, offering a good view of the river.

Near the trail rest pavilion visitors can also catch sight of the tung trees — an ice age relic whose large serrated leaves make a welcome parasol. With a bit of luck you might find some Japalura makii lizards playing hide-and-seek on the trunks of the trees, its body changing color from shiny green to speckled green and black, and then to dark brown.

The second stop was the Tianyungu (天雲谷) Waterfall, which drops dramatically over a high sheer cliff. The fall is fed by the Yaorenmao River, a tributary of the Shihgupan. To its side is a small flower garden, as well as a kitchen in a pavilion that can prepare lunch and barbecue for visitors. Liu said the Alishan National Scenic Area Administration has developed a new 2,276-meter wood planked trail to the waterfall. Unfortunately, since March is a drought period, the waterfall was very small at the time.

On our way back to Liu’s hostel, we visited the Landslide Memorial Park (土石流紀念公園), which is a jaw-dropping sight. This is Taiwan’s first landslide-themed park. It was built by the Alishan National Scenic Area Administration on a 20-hectare site struck by two major landslides.

The first occurred a century ago and the other was triggered by a massive earthquake on Sept. 21, 1999. Today, this area serves as an outdoor classroom for learning about geology and the power of nature. In addition, the Fongshan Viewing Platform (豐山觀景台) is a must-visit spot while traveling in the village. There is newly established homestay named “Viewing Homestay” and a coffee shop at the viewing platform. The homestay owner, Hsu Ming-yueh, told me that his platform is the best place to view the whole Fongshan village and also the majestic confluence of the Cingshuei, Gankeng and Shihgupan rivers.