Sung Tze-lai, a respected Chinese writer, composed a poem in 1981 dedicated to the place's beauty, entitled “If You Should Come to Hengchun.” He writes:

If you should come to Hengchun

Make sure to see it in the rain

Or watch the sailboats as they float along the water

If you should come to Hengchun

Make sure to see the sunset

When the clouds over the water look like fine red powder

If you should come to Hengchun

Make sure to see it in good weather

When the fog covering the mountains looks like a bridal veil

Actually anytime is a good time to come to Hengchun

Singing its praises makes your heart feel light

No one appreciates the Hengchun area better than Jack Wu, general manager of the grand Caesar Park Hotel in Kenting. Having lived in the area for several years, Wu said the beaches of Kenting have often masked other splendors of Hengchun, creating an illusion that summertime is the only suitable time to visit. In fact, “there is something for everyone in the Hengchun area, with cultural, historical and ecological wonders, all year long,” Wu highlighted.

Before entering Hengchun, let's start our trip by exploring the nature surrounding in Checheng township – bordering Hengchun's northern area – to see the respected Fuan Temple.

Fuan Temple

A 15-minute drive from the hot spring area is Taiwan's largest temple devoted to the God of Land, or Earth God, – Checheng's Fuan Temple.

Built more than 300 years ago during the Guangsyu reign, the impressive temple is gold and red, splendidly decorated with intricate stone carvings. Two Chinese stone lions welcome me outside the temple, adding gravity to the scene.

The Earth God's formal Chinese name is “Fudezhengshen,” meaning the Earth God of Wealth and Merit. The God's close relationship to people is reflected by his common name Tu Di Gong – “gong” is a reference to a grandfather figure. Often found in small shrines or under main altars, he is traditionally worshiped before the burial of a loved one, to give thanks for receiving the dead as they return to the land.

Caesar Park Hotel's tour guide Chen Jing-shan pointed out a special feature of the temple when we were there: the golden censer, designed to whisk stacks of the paper offering “money” straight into the furnace using wind from the chimney and surrounding windows, appearing as if little invisible fairies are collecting them.

Reminiscing the vibrant, romantic sunset view outside my Caesar Park Hotel room, it's unbelievable how such different beauties can be experienced within the same region.

Old Walls around Hengchun

Now back to the past, as old-fashioned walls and gateways come in sight, we have arrived at the center of Hengchun town.

As the best-preserved in the country, these city walls have been registered as a national historical monument.

The 13-meter tall walls enveloping the city extend 2.5 kilometers and were built over five years during the Qing Dynasty to repel invasions from neighboring Aborigines and foreign troops.

Built without cement or a single nail, Chen told me that the stones were joined together firmly with lime, glutinous rice and sugar. The technique sounds like a recipe for a students' art project, yet it held together solidly for decades.

Although the wall's not fully intact, it's remarkable to see how sections have been preserved after so many years, in spite of having encountered many typhoons, earthquakes and other natural disasters.

In celebration of the walls' 100th anniversary, reconstruction took place about 20 years ago, giving the original sections a more wholesome image.

There are four gateways facing east, south, north, and supposedly west – the western gate is the only one not angled right, apparently for feng shui reasons, Chen pointed out.

Each gateway has built-in watchtowers, gun emplacements, and a surrounding moat that has now dried up.

The eternal burning flame

One of Hengchun's treasures, an ecological wonder known as Chuhuo, is located just five minutes away from the East Gate. Chuhuo, literally “release fire” in Chinese, identifies Hengchun's eternally burning flame.

Chuhuo's entrance is identifiable with its spacious parking lot next to a staircase that leads to the natural marvel.

Visible flames emerging from the ground at Chuhuo are fueled by natural gas emitted through the area's cracked mudstone, like the nature's ever-burning lighter.

The sight is fascinating, but it is especially startling in the evenings, when the colors of the flames become vibrant, attracting hordes of people.

Once in a while visitors can find Chuhuo-baked potatoes for sale in the area. But they don't taste special because of the flames so don't feel obligated to try one.

The flames burn throughout the year, but the best time to witness nature's show is during dry seasons like spring and winter; otherwise, the rain can sometimes fill up cracks in the mudstone and conceal the burning flames.

Meet Mother Dong

After feeding your vision with so many curious matters, sample some local Hengchun flavors at the delightful Mother Dong's eatery, recommended by the locals working at Caesar Park Hotel in Kenting.

Even though petite, with only 20 odd seats available, the place is famous among locals and beyond.

Mother Dong, or Dongniang as everyone calls her, never works all day – she cherishes time with family – so whenever her shop is open, long queues form outside quickly.

Very traditional regional dishes, such as homemade soy sauce over fresh local pineapples, introduce the Hengchun flavors to visitors. One of my favorites is the hot-cold shredded ice – heated sugarcane sauce poured over shredded ice.

Not only does Dongniang explain to diners what each dish signifies and its ties to local culture, she also sings songs imparting Hengchun's history.

On the walls are several posters of poems, such as “If You Should Come to Hengchun,” depicting Hengchun's charming scenery, eventful history, and unique culture.

With everything in the shop pure Hengchun-style in the shop, from the furnishings and to, of course, the food, a visit to Mother Dong's is part of the true Hengchun experience.

Note: Make sure to call ahead to check if the shop will be open during your visiting hours.

How to get there:

By HSR - Take the HSR to Kaohsiung's Zuoying Station. A taxi or Kingbus (國光) that goes towards Kenting are available, and get off at Hengchun station. Prices are altogether approximately NT$1,500 single trip.

By bus - From Taipei Main Station, take Ubus (統聯) that departs for Pingtung County and get off at Hengchun station. Prices are approximately NT$500 for a return ticket.

Caesar Park Hotel ~ Kenting 墾丁凱薩大飯店/ No. 6 Kenting Road., Hengchun Township, Pingtung County 屏東縣恆春鎮墾丁路6號 (08) 886-1888

Mother Dong's Eatery 董娘的店/ No. 22 Hengnan Rd., Lane 2, Hengchun Township, Pingtung County屏東縣恆春鎮恆南路二巷22號 (08) 889-8755