Categorized as one of the eight scenic wonders in Taiwan by the Japanese occupiers, the gorge's beauty has been appreciated for generations. Although the gorge is now officially part of one of the seven national parks in Taiwan, that process stretched over 50 years, involving more than 2,000 government proposals, and hampered by politics.

But with Taroko's struggles past, all that remains is to marvel at and cherish this national treasure.

Let's start with geography. The gorge is enveloped by boundaries including the mouth of Liwu River and Mt. Nanhu. With zero elevation on one side and a 3,800-meter tall mountain on the other, the park's drastic altitude differences provide visitors with a captivating experience rarely accessible elsewhere – especially all in one go.

Tour guide Lin Mei-lin said Taroko is home to a wide range of vegetation – apparently one-third of all vascular plants found in Taiwan are found here. Because Taroko Gorge's unique geological structure prevents soil and water from accumulating, the vegetation is mainly hardy and drought-resistant, able to grow on rocky areas.

Lin told me that half of the mammal species found in the country, 90 percent of bird species and over half of the butterfly species reside in the park, too (I guess even they cannot resist Taroko Gorge's charm).

Join me in exploring some corners of the 270,000-hectare national park, starting from the Changchun Shrine.

The Eternal Spring Shrine

Not too far from the entrance near the Liwu River is a shrine. Although grand, the site is humble in comparison to the magnificent natural backdrop of marbled stone, known as Changchun – literally meaning “Eternal Spring.” The shrine commemorates the lives of 212 workers who died after periodic earthquakes and typhoons in the late 1950s wreaked havoc on construction of the Central Cross-island Highway that zigzags across Taroko. About 6,000 men, some prisoners, worked on the project. Lin said frequent visitors often stop by the shrine to pay their respects.

The current shrine was rebuilt after the first one was destroyed by a rockslide in 1987. Restoration took nearly a decade.

Adjacent to the shrine is Chanchun Falls – Taroko's spring water that flows all year round. It's a scenic spot with special significance because people view the non-stop flow of water as a symbol of unceasing vitality.

Behind the Changchun Shrine, a staircase leads to the Kuanyin Cave, the Taroko Tower, and at the very top, the Bell Tower. The leisurely walk to the Bell Tower usually takes about 45 minutes. It took me more than an hour as the surroundings often kept me rooted to the spot.

Note: The trail up is considerably steep, so sightseeing is discouraged on rainy days.

Yanzihkou

Journey further into the park and make a pit stop at the Swallow Grotto, also known as Yanzihkou. The rock cliffs that rise from the Liwu River seem so gigantic when you look up, topped with wispy clouds, you can't tell where they end. It's almost as if the rock climbs endlessly into heaven.

As you near the end of the grotto, it's about half a kilometer to Jinheng Bridge. Views of the Liwu River as well as the watermarks on the opposite cliffs' faces are clear; the distance between the gorge walls is so narrow, the rocks are almost kissing.

With efforts to offer visitors a more enjoyable experience of the gorge, the park administration built a two-lane tunnel two years ago that separates vehicles and walkers.

Lin said swallows flutter through the spot in June, adding a welcoming animated display to the peaceful scene.

Jiucyudong

My favorite part of Taroko Gorge is the most magnificent part – the Tunnel of Nine Turns Trail – where several sheer cliffs face one another. The distinctive formation is immediately recognizable.

According to Lin, Jiucyudong was especially difficult and dangerous to construct because of its unexpected rockslides, especially when the wind blows from the water toward the narrow valley, putting pressure on the cliff faces.

The tunnel in the gorge, resembling a coiled dragon, allows visitors to view the marble cliffs' folds and joints. Peering across the narrow gorge at a wall of stone just ten meters away, I feel like I could reach out and touch it. As I look far away down, I watch Kelan River rushing by in the small gap.

The walk on the trail takes about 30 minutes, but I could spend a whole day there, taking in every curve and stroke on the mountain of marble stones. It's amazing to see what a breathtaking masterpiece nature and human beings together can create.

Without a doubt, being so intimate with the natural world involves a certain amount of risk, but as part of the park headquarters' safety project, helmets are now highly recommended when visiting Jiucyudong because pebbles do fall unpredictably once in a while.

Note: Helmets are available at the Taroko National Park Headquarters.

Cihmu Bridge

Near the end of the gorge, parallel to the Central Cross-island Highway, is the Cihmu Bridge, a hanging bridge with two marble lions on each side.

Beneath the bridge sits a frog-shaped rock composed of a black layer of schist and a white layer of marble. Lin said former President Chiang Ching-kuo built a pavilion on this rock in memory of his mother – I thought that was sweet. I then understood why the bridge is named Chimu – it means “benevolent mother” in Chinese.

This part of the gorge is interesting because it's the merging point of two different types of rocks, schist and marble, and two rivers, Laosi and Liwu. Standing on the bridge is like standing in between two spaces coming together to create this unique experience; without each element, the place wouldn't be the same.

Similar to an “exit” gate of the gorge, the area surrounding the bridge is the most popular picture-taking spot.

Unlike the Eiffel Tower or the Great Pyramid at Giza – both feats of engineering – the gorge is 100 percent natural and found only in Taiwan.

How to get there:

By railway:

Get off at Hualien Station (NT$480 – NT$520/trip from Taipei) and visitors have the choice of taking the Hualien Bus, renting a car, a scooter, or taking a taxi up to the Taroko National Park Headquarters.

By air:

Flights are available from Taipei and Kaohsiung (about NT$1500/trip from Taipei. The Hualien Bus is also available from Hualien airport.

By car:

The Provincial Highway No. 9 is the main freeway that leads to the park's headquarters in about four hours.