For a time, the areas lost their shiny spark, but local film director Ho Hsiao-shien revitalized the area in 1989, producing a historical movie based in Jioufen called The City of Sadness. Several scenes shot in Jioufen's narrow and historic streets reminded many of its forgotten splendors.

So let's explore local history (before indulging further, rest assured that this journey is suitable for all ages).

The aging streets of Jioufen

Step into the past at the bottom of Jishan Street, one of the three main old streets of Jioufen.

Enter Jishan Street to find a peculiar selection of snack shops and other traditional treasures, such as calligraphy brushes and wooden slippers.

One of the delights originating in Jioufen's Old Streets includes the now-popular taro balls – traditional sweets similar to purple marshmallows in size and shape –, such as the ones sold at Chuchuan A-man's Shop.

Affable owner Chien Wang-te said he took over the 30-year-old shop from his mother about a decade ago. The taro balls have always been handmade in front of customers on the shop's wooden counter because to Chien, quality is best demonstrated by action, not words.

For those who wish to share a piece of Jioufen with friends and family back home, the shop offers boxes of raw taro and sweet potato balls that can be kept fresh in freezers for up to a month (NT$70/600 grams and NT$50/415 grams). In comparison to average market prices, visitors are getting a great deal for authentic products.

I couldn't get enough “sweetness”, so I continued further up the street and stopped by Liao Family's Century-Old Shop for some bite-size pastries. True to its advertising, this shop has indeed been selling pastries in Jioufen for more than 100 years.

The taste of the bite-size fried pastry balls has remained the same throughout the years, although the sizes and shapes have evolved from a dumpling shape into a ball (dumplings shapes apparently were just too time-consuming to make).

Six different stuffing flavors are available, including the original sweet white beans, my personal favorite, and the most popular, taro (NT$10/pastry). Customers can purchase the pastries individually or pick ten flavors to fill a well-dressed box for NT$100.

Perpendicular to Jishan Street lies the star locale of Jioufen – the famous staircase down Shuci Road that featured prominently in The City of Sadness.

As I strolled down the stairs, enveloped by rows of ancient teahouses, the clock turned back to Jioufen's glory days.

For history buffs or those who just need a break, a café that bears the same name as the movie, also known as A-Mei Tea House, offers specialty meals of traditional Taiwanese food. Refreshing tea is also available to those already full from the sweet snacks.

Even though descending the staircase is a mere 10-minute walk, many visitors linger there the longest for its culture and historic character.

Forge onwards to the bottom of the staircase to arrive at the front door of the 80-year-old Shenping Theater. Rebuilt in 1951, Shenping was the first modern theater in northern Taiwan, and surprisingly, the tiny place was once the biggest. Squeezed in between two more attention-grabbing buildings, the now quaint-looking theater seems fatigued, but still charming.

Continuing down around the hill leads you to the last part of Old Street, the Chinpien Road, home to a cluster of hostels and guesthouses.

Most accommodations here are difficult to locate, but once found, are hard to leave. Although these aren't grand 5-star hotels, they are each weirdly-shaped and have a unique past. Situated on the hill, many rooms provide a breathtaking view of natural greenery out the windows.

Jinguashih shares many of Jiufen's qualities though it has one subtle difference: smaller crowds! Visitors there can experience a peaceful sanctuary, away from the bustling streets.

Mini Tokyo?

Jinguashih, hidden between Chahu Mountain and Keelung Mountain, suits those who like the quiet beauty of a mountain backdrop and seascapes.

Downhill from Jioufen's old streets, visitors will find a historical perspective of Jinguashih at the Gold Ecological Park, where the chapters of gold mining history are relived today.

In addition to the Environmental Education Center and Museum of Gold, the park recently opened the Gold-refining Building. The tour in the new building begins with a video of an ex-miner telling the tale of the gold rush during the Japanese occupations.

Hidden in a rear corner of the park is the Prince Guest House, transporting visitors to Osaka or Kyoto.

Built in 1922, the guest house is a must-see for its elegant representation of traditional Japanese architecture, made from the finest cypress wood and assembled without a single nail. It's also chockfull of good anecdotes!

The house was originally built for former Japanese Emperor Hirohito when he was the prince, but according to the tour guide, he never lived there. Instead, Hirohito stayed in Keelung when he visited the island. Rumors suggest that the prince's original plan changed because he was warned of an assassination attempt against him. Others say that he detoured to Europe because his cousin had gotten into a car accident there.

The structure's grounds are decorated with a Japanese-style garden and a tranquil pond, with a mini golf driving range and an archery field in the back.

The colorful scenes of Jinguashih

Now, be ready for some golden scenes at the Golden waterfall that spills down the hillside Chahu Mountain. There is no gold there to discover, but the view is equally precious. The waterfall gets its namesake golden hue from the copper and iron deposits in the mines. Owing to its special color, the waterfall is a popular wedding photo spot.

Also alongside Mt. Chahu, but further downhill, sits the abandoned smelting factory famously known as the Old 13th Floor. The plant is built vertically along the hillside in 13 floors that, taken as a whole, bear a passing similarity with Aztec Ruins. But this is no tomb.

The uppermost end of the building offers a clear view of the distant Yin-Yang Sea, where red iron-rich water mingles with the blue waves. Walk alongside the coast and enjoy the hand-painted sea view. As the final stop, it is the ideal location to collect your thoughts before returning to reality – the present day.

How to get there:

By car:

Get on to the national highway #1 and head north towards the Northeast Coast Scenic Area (東北角風景區), then continue on towards Reifang (瑞芳) and Nuannuan (暖暖).

By bus:

Take the Keelung Bus (基隆客運) that goes towards Jinguashih (金瓜石) and get off at the stop for Jioufen (九份).

By train:

Get off at Reifang station, then take the connecting bus to Jioufen.

Chuchuan A-man's Taro Balls 祖傳阿滿 #41-2, Jishan St., Reifang Township, Taipei County 台北縣瑞芳鎮基山街41-2號 (02) 2496-5038

Liao Family's Century Old Shop 九份廖家 # 129 Jishan St., Reifang Township, Taipei County台北縣瑞芳鎮基山街129號 (02) 2497-1572