No Snow Here, Just Endless Driving

Before introducing Yilan to you, it is vital to establish the significance of the Hsuehshan Tunnel. Located on the No. 5 National Highway, the tunnel has placed Yilan within reach of Taipei City since its opening in 2006. The nearly 13-kilometer tunnel slicing through the Hsuehshan Mountain range is the longest in Taiwan, second longest in East Asia and the fifth longest in the world.

A special feature inside the tunnel is the dedicated radio station broadcast on two FM channels inside the passageway. During the approximate 8.5-minute drive through the tunnel, drivers can tune in to hear announcements regarding the Hsuehshan tunnel regulations, as well as soft music.

The tunnel has cut the former two-hour journey to 30 minutes, making Yilan easily accessible. However, the 14-year-long project was no easy feat.

Engineers encountered numerous geological difficulties while excavating the tunnel. Rockslides caused severe delays, while groundwater flooding and collapses also hindered the project. A staggering 25 local tunnel diggers lost their lives during construction.

The tunnel therefore has a special significance to the country, as it represents a great achievement for which many were sacrificed.

Note: Vehicles must stay between 50 kilometers and 80 kilometers per hour.

Emerging from the tunnel, Yilan is about a 10-minute drive away. Follow the signs towards Jiaosi Township for one of its most invaluable 'antiques' – the natural hot springs.

Hot in the Jiaosi Style

The Jiaosi Hot Springs in Yilan County gained their fame as far back as the Qing Dynasty, making the site one of the eight must-visit scenic spots in the area.

Unlike some hot spring water that can sometimes smell like rotten eggs, Jiaosi's rare flatland hot springs won my heart when I discovered its waters to be the only odorless and colorless type in Taiwan. Fortified with numerous minerals, the water is said to have the power to heal skin and stomach problems. I see myself becoming addicted to this as I imagine having flawless skin.

Decades ago, local residents enjoyed daily soaks in the open hot water grounds, much like Romans in Bath Spa, England. Nowadays, public hot spring areas are still available, but more that 100 hotels and guesthouses also jam the area, creating a lively hot spring village. The water has developed a unique culture that is diverse and fascinating.

As more and more people visit spas worldwide, the health spa trend has begun to transform natural springs. Innovative touches at local spa hotels are guaranteed to surprise visitors and provide Jiaosi bathers an unforgettable experience.

Like a series of superheroes with different powers, each pool offers its own restorative cure to bathers. From milk baths to rose water to ginger springs, there is always something for everyone whether you wish to whiten or soften your skin or simply just to relax.

I could barely contain myself as I plunged into a pool with a table smack in the middle and ready and waiting upon it: Mah-jong! Cultural elements around the area add personality to Jiaosi's hot spring culture. As I dipped into a pool of cooled spring water, I noted local ambitions to transform Jiaosi into a place suitable to visit year-round.

True to its reputation as a family resort, there is a children's pool with a swirly slide and tunnels for children to go wild in. Parents can sit back and relax in the nearby pool while keeping an eye on the kids. Lifeguards are around to watch over the wild ones as well, which allows the experience to be even more stress-free.

Entering a spa hotel like Chuang-tang Spa Hotel requires an entrance fee that ranges from NT$180 to NT$250 for adults. A dip in the springs at Jiaosi does not always mean visitors must stay overnight, although rooms are certainly available for those who wish to enjoy the natural springs for a longer period. Chuang-tang room prices range from NT$4,800 up to NT$19,800 per night.

Once you're finally willing to leave the place behind, hop back on the car and let's go enjoy some great views and one-of-a-kind activities like whale-watching that can't be found just anywhere!

Note: To go whale-watching, head towards Chinyun Road Sec. 1. from Jiaosi Road Sec. 5, until it meets the Northern Coast Highway; Wushih Harbor will be on the right. The journey requires a 20-minute drive.

An Access Point for Whale-watching

For a real-life “Free Willy” reenactment, Wushih Harbor offers the chance to get up close and personal with families of whales.

Located in Toucheng Township, Wushih Harbor is closest to Gueishan Island – literally meaning Turtle Moutain Island – just 10 kilometers away. The volcanic island got its name from its unique turtle-like shape. The sea area around Turtle Island is shallow and flat, and hence a perfect site for whale-watching.

Nearly 30 species of whales and dolphins reside in the magnificent northeast coast's waters, making Yilan one of the hottest spots worldwide in recent years to observe cetaceans, i.e. whales and dolphins.

Whale-watching tours are available several times a day, with numerous companies and more than 30 boats providing the service. Some of the boats offer educational tours as well, sharing marine ecology and fishery knowledge to visitors. Prices vary from NT$1,000 to NT$1,600 per person.

Each trip takes about two to three hours, depending on the sort of package visitors choose. In addition to getting intimate with the adorable creatures, visitors can also take in the beautiful geological formations of the coastline as they turn back towards the harbor. The depth of the experience is way beyond a mere boat trip in the sea, or a drive to Yilan.

Note: The whale-watching season is from March to November. For those who get seasick, take seasickness pills at least half an hour prior to sailing. Sun protection is also highly recommended.

How to get there:

By car:

From Taipei, head towards Keelung on National Free way No. 1 and connect to National Freeway No. 5, then go through the Hsuehshan Tunnel. The trip is

an average 80-minute drive.

By railway:

Get off at Jiaosi's own train station after an approximately 90-minute journey from Taipei Main Station. (NT$160 – NT$190/trip)

By bus:

Take the Kamalan Bus from the Taipei Main Station and get off at Jiaosi Station, after traveling for about 70 minutes. (NT$105/trip)