Today the hardest part of the fifteen minute walk from the parking area to the cave is a short but stiff climb along the brick-surfaced lane at the beginning. At the top of this hill, next to a multicolored metal observation tower (which gives a good view back down the valley towards Sanmin Village), steps lead quickly and gently down to the stream edge, and a wide, level, surfaced path leads up the gorge until, after a slight rise, the great black hole of Taiwan's biggest cave mouth suddenly looms in front.

Some of the wildness of this amazing spot has undoubtedly gone since getting there became rather easier, and putting picnic tables in the cave definitely doesn't improve the scene, but it's still a mightily impressive place, and well worth a visit. Especially as it forms the focal point of a short and easy but very beautiful trail linking it to another impressive natural cavern: Guanyin Cave.

Sanmin Bat Cave (三民蝙蝠洞) lies three kilometers from the village of the same name, near the beginning of the North Cross-island Highway (北橫,). A three-kilometer long road from the village (signposted) leads to a parking area, from where it's an easy 15-20 minute stroll to the cave, beside which an attractive waterfall cascades through an unusual natural hole cut in the rock.

After heavy rain, it's quite a fine sight, and the pool at the base of the fall is great for swimming, which is exactly what a local aboriginal family was doing when we last visited the cave.

Now follow the trail back out of the gorge, and turn left at the observation tower, along the brick-paved lane once more. This intrusively man-made 'improvement' isn't a promising start to the hike, but in just a few minutes, the surfaced lane ends, becoming a narrow but clear dirt trail surfaced in black plastic mesh, which ensures the trail will be passable even after heavy rain, yet doesn't interfere with the beauty of the lush, jungle surroundings too much.In just a couple of minutes, a rather steep sidetrail to the left leads to the beautiful little glen at the head of the waterfall, although take great care, as the rocky stream bed above the brink is slippery! Keep to the main path and it continues high above the stream through an area of beautiful, unspoilt jungle, and finally descends to the level of the stream, passing through some wonderfully idyllic scenery of rock, water and forest.

Our last visit was perfectly timed: a fine sunny day following heavy rain the night before, and the damp air was heavy with the glorious, almost overpowering scent given off by the small, orange flowers of a species of palm tree that grows in the forest here.

Presently, the path starts to climb, makes its way around a large landslide, and reaches a small open area with a bench. Look over the guard rail behind, and a small but beautiful waterfall spreads over a smooth rock face beside the path, falling into a deep, circular plunge pool of clear blue water far below the path. It would be a first rate swimming hole, only it's pretty well inaccessible at the bottom of the near vertical bank, unless a long length of stout rope is handy.

The sounds of Buddhist chanting may well be heard on the air by this point. The big temple built in front of Guanyin Cave (觀音洞) is now just above, and after a short but stiff climb up steps, the path is blocked by an iron gate. Open it and emerge into the large car park in front of Guanyin Cave Temple.

This large and rather plain looking temple (lots of concrete and iron in evidence) is quite a shock after the beauty of the forest, but the cave itself is atmospheric, despite the multicolored dragon fountain and other trimmings, and the temple's situation is unique: look over the wall to the left of the temple to discover that the buildings straddle a deep, narrow rocky cleft threaded by a stream tumbling over cascades on its way down the waterfall passed earlier.

The temple has big plans for expansion, including, (a board proudly states) a 120 foot-high statue of Guanyin intended to crown the highest part of the complex. All very impressive, but, retracing the route back to Sanmin and the car, the more lasting impression will probably be made by the beautiful jungle landscape and the mysterious, great stone cave mouth that grace this little corner of Taoyuan (桃園) County.