![]() |
www.ChinaPost.com.tw |
|
|
|
|
The beautiful waterfalls, rocks and jungle of Chiedong Old Trail
The blame for this state of affairs (or rather the credit, as the lack of visitors makes it a blissfully peaceful place for those in the know) can be laid firmly on the shoulders of the large private housing estate that lies at the mouth of the only road to the waterfalls. Almost all the cars traveling up Chinjin Road towards Xichi's most popular scenic spot, Big Sharp Mountain (大尖山) ignore the turnoff at a sharp bend on the left halfway up the hill, assuming from the guardhouse and smart houses lining the road that the area is nothing more than a smart (and private) housing estate. However, drive in and soon the houses are replaced by a country lane winding through pleasant countryside for a kilometer or so, until a big sign announces Chiedong Waterfall. The sign is hardly necessary, as the lowest of the three waterfalls is clearly visible to the right as the road crosses a small bridge over the stream. Just above the road the stream drops over three smallish but shapely falls (there's a small overhang behind the top one, although you'll get wet trying to crouch behind the fall - not necessarily unwelcome this time of year). The scenery of the sylvan glen here is gentle rather than grand or imposing, and it's a tempting place for a hot summer afternoon, assuming you've lucked out and you have the place to yourself (not uncommon, even at weekends), and below the lowest fall is a large, shallow pool, great for paddling. Chiedong Waterfalls, being right beside a road, are certainly a very convenient place to reach, but more active explorers may well feel just a little restless reclining beside the stream listening to the sound of falling water for more than a few minutes. No problem! Chiedong Waterfall marks the start of a fine trail that heads upstream past several small but very shapely cascades before heading into rougher, more challenging territory.Cross the stream below the lowest waterfall by stepping on the boulders conveniently lying half submerged in the clear water, and follow the path on the far side as it climbs a little, then contours the hillside high above the stream, passing the upper two waterfalls. The trail is easy and wide at first, but less sure-footed walkers may want to turn back after passing the topmost waterfall, as the trail (up until this point wide and surfaced in stone) now narrows and becomes a lot rougher and overgrown. Keep the hands free for a few short climbs up steep banks, and look carefully for the occasional plastic trail ribbon, as the path is a bit unclear in a few places. After about half-an-hour, the trail climbs round a large bluff of rock and there's a junction. The Chiedong Old Trail keeps to the near side of the stream, to finally join a much wider path. Alternatively keep right to cross the stream and this trail heads off into the thick jungle covered hills behind Big Sharp Mountain. This trail also eventually joins up with the wide, well-kept, but rather dull path that links Big Sharp and Sifenziwei Mountains, but until that point (a kilometer or two further up) it's a grand hike with (for this area) some exhilaratingly secluded and steep terrain to enjoy. Exploring the waterfalls and rock-strewn jungle above Chiedong Waterfalls is a great diversion for a couple of hours, but fit hikers out for a real adventure should follow the road back towards Xichi for a couple of hundred meters and take the narrow, overgrown trail beside the first stream (at a sharp bend in the road) up to the Big Sharp Mountain Waterfalls (大尖山瀑布). A wide stone path once led up the stream past this series of four falls, but that was largely wrecked by a catastrophic typhoon a good few years ago and few people go up there these days. A trail besides the stream up to the pretty bottom-most fall of the series is easy enough to follow. For the rest, strike right up the steep wooded bank shortly after leaving the road, and with great care (the going is often difficult), follow the fragments of stone path (which bares a passing resemblance to the remains of some mysterious ancient lost city) up past the next two waterfalls to the fourth and highest waterfall; the nearly vertical rock face beside it is scaled by a rope which will put off all but the best climbers, but it's quite an adventure to get even this far! |
| Copyright © 1999 – 2009 The China Post. |
| Back to Story |