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Adventure up Route 24
Route 24 starts just east of the township of Pingdong (屏東) in southern Taiwan and runs in a northeast direction all the way up to Ali, high up in the Central Mountain Range that splits Pingdong County to the west and Taidong (台東) Country to the east. The first place you come to as you leave the flat plains of Pingdong County behind is the culturally rich township of Sandimen (三地門) situated on the foothills with a commanding view over the Ailiau (隘寮) River below. Sandimen possess striking landscapes, verdant mountains and is home to members of the Paiwan Aboriginal Tribe. In the period of the Qing Dynasty, Han people used to cultivate this area and called it "Hair of Wild Boar." In the Paiwan language, the township is called "Insdimoor," meaning gateway of three places – Wutai, Sandimen and Majia. Sandimen Township offers a unique opportunity to delve into the history of the aboriginal tribes, observe traditional Paiwan (排灣) stone-slab houses, stone implements and wood carvings. You can also feast on authentic aboriginal foods, and buy unique aboriginal glass beads, clothing, embroidery, pottery and other art works. During the harvest festivals that take place each August, the aboriginal tribesmen don their traditional costume and perform traditional singing and dancing. It's a sight not to be missed! Sandimen is also the gateway to exploring the restricted section of Route 24 that twists and turns further into the mountains and up to the Rukai (魯凱族) stronghold of Wutai (霧台). You will come to the police check-point and permit application point a few kilometers past Sandimen. Fill out the paperwork, present your ID and pay a NT$10 application fee and you are soon on your way again winding through some truly amazing scenery. Steep drop-offs and rushing waterfalls meet you at almost every turn as you rapidly gain elevation and pass through deep cut gorges. Wutai Scenic Area is situated about 1,000 meters above sea level, among the forested peaks of Mt. Dawu (大武), in the southernmost end of the Central Mountain range. The area is pleasantly cool and is frequently shrouded in swirling white mist, which adds an air of mystery to its already enchanting scene. Very appropriately, the Chinese characters used to write "Wutai" mean "fog terrace." The name Rukai originally comes from the Rukai aboriginal language meaning "small village."Like Sandimen Township below, Wutai Township is famous for its stone slab houses built entirely of locally available material. In the days before mechanization, the aboriginal people cut slabs of slate using large knives, then worked together to carry the extremely heavy, sharp-edged slabs up the mountains. Once in place, everyone pitched in to erect the dwellings. It's said that when a typhoon hits the area, not even one of Wutai's stone houses will be blown over or a single stone slab sent flying through the air! As well as being used to make stone houses, stone tables and stone seats, the slate is carved to amazing effect by the local tribesmen and is often seen lining the road and driveways in the area with a variety of interesting designs. Another feature of the area is the Rukai totem of a hundred pacer snake, so called because it's said that if you're bitten, you can only walk about a hundred paces before you fall dead. The hundred-pacer is the ancestral symbol of the Rukai tribe, so these snakes appear together with human beings in the wood and stone sculptures that can be seen in abundance in the Wutai area. After taking in so much culture and scenery, it's time to sit down and sample some of the wonderful local Rukai cuisine which traditionally includes roast boar, mountain sago and maize dishes, and a local specialty called "Jinabuwan," which consists of millet and pickled minced meat cooked and wrapped in ginger leaves. Pull up at any local eatery or roadside stall and you will no doubt be invited to join the locals in sharing their food with them, sampling some of their local sweet millet wine, and before long don't be surprised if your crooning a tune from one of the nearby karaoke machines! There is no better way to experience true Rukai and Paiwan culture than with an adventure up Route 24! |
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