A bossa nova soundtrack played in the background to the quiet delight of the customers. Polite and knowledgable servers catered to animated crowds and whispering couples with the same unwaveringly good attitude.

Amidst the merry atmosphere, the famous beef tataki salad with soy dressing (NT$280) arrived first (see top left) and was massively impressive. The heaping dish consisted of a pile of shredded onions covered by long strips of seared beef. This dish is typically served with the beef flat against the plate so the presentation itself was extrodinary. The mountainous sight caused us to exclaim, "This is like, Mount Fuji!"

The quality of the beef can be detected in your first bite; it is slightly smoky and tender, without the chewiness of excessive tendons. Very good quality, indeed. The onions—which have been washed, soaked and drained—were less spicy and eye-watering than if they had been served raw yet they were able to remain crisp.

Next up was the spicy tuna tar-tar served Korean style and topped with shallots, a raw egg yolk and sprinkled with pine nuts (NT$260). We mixed all the ingredients together and the result was a tasty salad with a good balance of fish and vegetables.

Another notable dish was the steamed potato topped with fish roe mayo (NT$160). This dish came out looking plain and unimpressive, but the old adage of "looks can be deceiving" comes to mind after my friend and I took a bite. The potato turned out to be a must try; the vegetable was sliced thickly and baked, with a warmed paste of fish roe and mayo spread across the top. Simply delicious, it became the cornerstone of a pleasant experience.

Hwa tze xun (花彘醺)

No.8, Aly. 15, Ln. 354, Sec. 4, Ren-ai Rd., Taipei City

台北市仁愛路四段345巷15弄8號

(02) 2777-1479