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Siangyang National Forest Recreation Area

Thursday, April 9, 2009
By David Hsu, Special to The China Post


Siangyang National Forest Recreation Area (SNFRA向陽國家森林遊樂區) is a mountain-style recreation area developed by the Taiwan Forest Bureau (林務局). Since its altitude ranges from 2,300 to 2,700 meters, the area is always surrounded by clouds and mist, especially in the afternoon, when clouds and mist move up from the east coast.

I visited the area twice. On both occasions, I was able to witness the legendary "sea of clouds" phenomenon the region is famous for.

I approached from the west side of the Southern Cross-Island Highway. The SNFRA is about 14k east of the Taiguanshan Tunnel (大關山隧道), which is under the Central Mountain Ridge (中央山脈) and the main tunnel connecting the western and eastern sides of the Southern Cross-Island Highway. The weather on the east side of the tunnel is always misty while the west is always clear.

There are several tour buses stopped in the parking lot when I arrive in SNFRA. Not many visitors enter on foot.

The way SNFRA is set up makes it easy for visitors to go deep into the middle to high altitudinal mountain areas and come into close contact with nature. With lively and diversified biological resources, the natural vegetation is dominated by Taiwan Red Pines and Formosan Cypress, as well as the paradise-like misty environment.

With an altitude ranging from 2,300 to 2,600 meters, SNFRA is nested at the 154km mark of the Southern Cross-Island Highway (南部橫貫公路) in Hai Tuan Township (海端鄉) of Taitung County (台東縣), eastern Taiwan. As the native forest is well preserved, there is an abundance of animals and plants, especially birds. Birds of the Paridae family are the most commonly seen and their chirps all around tell of the beauty of the forest.

Well-maintained trails recently opened by the park administration are the highlights of the area. There are six main trails; some even lead to higher mountains such Jiaming Lake (嘉明湖) and Singyang Tai Shan (向陽大山), both of which are over 3,000 meters high. Because of my limited time, I only walked the Songtao Trail.

The six main trails are as follows:

Cypress Forest Trail (檜木林棧道)

Numerous thousand-year-old Formosan Cypresses (Chamaecyparis Formosensis) embraced by clouds and mist are found along the 680m-long trail with a height difference of up to 85m, on which a great variety of ferns are nurtured. Oreorchis Ohwii orchids occasionally seen along the wooden walkway are a nice surprise in the misty forests.

Songtao Trail (松濤步道)

The 1,560m-long trail is the highest point of the trail system in the region, where the upper course of Sinlyuwu River can be seen in the southeast. Clusters of moisture have covered the whole mountain in a veil of cloud and mist and the entrance leading to Siangyang Mountain and Jiaming Lake is found at the end of the trail.

Siangyang Trail (向陽步道)

The approximately 660m-long main trail leads from the entrance of the recreation area to the visitor center and also links up the different major trails of the region.

As the trail is even and easy to walk, it takes about 30 minutes for a lap. The Silver Cardinal Maples found along the trail play an important role in the color changes in the middle altitudinal mountain areas, while birds including the White-eared Sibia, the Taiwan Yuhina and the Green-backed Tit are seen flying in between.

Songyang Trail (松陽步道)

It is a 1,770m-long uphill winding trail with numerous Taiwan Red Pines on both sides of the trail. Walking on such a thick carpet of pine needles, you can enjoy an indescribable pleasure — the experience will be unforgettable.

Siangsong Trail (向松步道)

This trail is approximately 800m-long with a gentle slope, where beautiful Formosa Lady's Slipper can be seen occasionally in the undergrowth.

Songjing Trail (松景步道)

Taiwan Red Pines are the most commonly seen along the 1,700m-long trail. Birds in the tit and chickadee family fly in the forest of the region.

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