Yushan (玉山) -- or Mt. Jade if you like -- is located in the Yushan National Park at the border of Jiayi (嘉義) and Nantou (南投) Counties. Despite its impressive height, it is a relatively easy mountain to climb. Before you set out on your journey, you have to take care of several administrative formalities. First, you need a national park entry permit, which you can apply for online. With that you have to apply for a mountain permit at a police station. There have been quite a few foreigners who climbed without the permit, but you may end up with an unwelcome fine to pay if caught, not to mention covering all costs in case of an accident.

Climbing to the main peak can be done in one day or two days, each way has its advantages as well as drawbacks. The one-day option means you have to set out early, but need not carry a heavy backpack. A two-day trip means a more relaxed tempo, but a heavier load on your back. Furthermore, as there is only one possible place to sleep over at the top, Paiyun Lodge 排雲山莊, which obviously gets really busy especially on weekends, you need to be lucky to get a berth in a draw one month in advance. That is arguably the worst obstacle to the two-day trip.

The usual trail to the summit starts at Tataka (塔塔加) Saddle, at the altitude of some 2610 meters. To get an early start, stay over for NT$300 in Dongpushanzhuang (東埔山莊), which is within walking distance from Tataka. From the parking lot, walk up the road towards a tourist center. Your permits will be checked there and then you can choose to walk or take a van (NT$100) to the actual start of the trail about 2km up the road. From there it is up to you.The path is easy to walk, with only several steeper stretches. Most of the time it leads in open area, so there are magnificent views of surrounding mountains. As the path passes through moderate to alpine vegetation zones, the character of your surroundings changes as well. Numerous dry stumps of ancient trees look fairly innocent in broad daylight, but once they get covered by fog, they create a ghostly atmosphere. Equally impressive are rock formations along the way. The trail to Paiyun Lodge is 8.5km long and while its beginning may seem like a Sunday walk in your favorite Taipei park, it gets more demanding with rising altitude. Every 500 meters there are signs informing about the pilgrim's progress.

Paiyun Lodge, perched at 3400m, is definitely a most welcome sight at that stage of the hike. It does not offer anything but the most basic equipment, but you can get fresh water there (and usually some hot water as well). From the lodge it is a further 2.5km to the actual summit. That is the most demanding stretch, partly due to a much steeper path, partly due to thinner air, which may cause breathing difficulties or even high altitude sickness. Most Taiwanese and Japanese attempt to reach the summit in time for sunrise, but the weather being as unpredictable as it is, quite a few return having seen nothing but clouds and mist. There is no time that would guarantee good weather; it can change either way within minutes.

The descent back to civilization is quick. It takes the same path, but pacing in the opposite direction is obviously much easier, as you will see yourself in the faces of those struggling to reach the places, where you just enjoyed your five minutes of glory.

Within a few hours you will find yourself back at the starting point with a van or two waiting. And then it is time for a celebratory drink and -- possibly -- the call to Yushan Bank.

Even though the hike to Yushan's summit is a fairly common trip undertaken by numerous locals as well as foreigners up a well-maintained path, remember that you are in mountains. The weather changes fast and while you may set out under burning sun and 20 plus degrees, at the summit the temperature may drop below zero, so be ready.