As we get closer to the old house, there's an even more delightful surprise: The fields on either side of the lane are a riot of countless pink, orange red and white flowers which thrive in the well-watered soil of the valley. This must be a favorite location among the wedding photo crowd, only we're here in late November, and the air is a tad chilly, so we have this glorious sight more-or-less to ourselves.

A little further along the lane we turn right into a large parking area, and the rich, orange brickwork of the Li Teng-fang House (李藤芳古厝), or 'Lee Teng-fang Archaic Mansion' as the English translation quaintly refers to it) can be seen behind an encircling wall. Designated a Grade Two historic building by the government, the house is among the finest surviving examples of a Hakka residence in Taiwan. Built between 1860 and 1864, the house is a kind of symbol of prestige built by the owner (after whom the house is named) to commemorate his passing of several important government examinations. This made him a high ranking official in the government, an achievement of such magnitude that the whole town (until then known as Daguxian) was actually renamed in his honor! The town was later renamed once more, taking its present, more neutral name of Dasi (大溪, literally 'big river') in 1920.It was because of that big river that the Lee family and (many other Hakka who had left their homeland in the southeast China province of Fujian) settled here, in Dasi. It's hard to appreciate it from the sad, shallow watercourse that flows through the valley today, but a century or so ago the Dahan River which flows through Dasi was wide and deep, and provided an efficient and easy method for transporting the agricultural riches grown in the Dasi area (including camphor, tea, rice and vegetables) downstream to Taipei. Thus many Hakka merchants such as the Lee family that traded in Dasi became exceedingly wealthy; reminders of this past glory can be seen to this day throughout the town in its older houses, some of which have beautiful, elaborately carved facades.

The grandest of them all, the Lee Teng-fang old house is a traditional Hakka, three-winged construction, guarded by a large semi-circular pool and a whitewashed wall of mud brick. Entering through the main gate, inside is a huge, open courtyard, with two stone bases that once supported flag poles from which Lee's flag of office would flutter, as if anyone entering this grand residence needed reminding of the family's exalted status! Through another gate in a second wall (this time of rich, red brick), the entrance to the house stands opposite, across a smaller inner courtyard.

After such an elaborate approach, the house at first looks surprisingly small and low, but walk inside, and this first building is revealed as simply an entrance building, behind which lies a complicated warren of corridors, chambers, larger rooms (on two floors) and courtyards. Most of the rooms stand empty, although there are a few small exhibitions of photos showing members of the Lee family and Dasi as it looked back in their time. Best of all, though, is the decoration and carving: The conspicuous and graceful swallowtail roof blades, yet another symbol of Lee's officer status, catch the eye even before entering the complex of buildings, while inside are countless beautiful carvings in wood, sandstone and (it's true!) mud, plus painting and calligraphy of great quality.

Opened to the public at the end of 2004, the Lee Teng-fang House has already become quite a popular stop on the Dasi tourist trail, and, despite lying well out of the town center, it's an easy one to visit, courtesy of the regular (and free) new shuttle bus service that winds its way around Dasi's main tourist attractions, stopping at the house on its way.