Were it located elsewhere, Yimin Temple (義民廟) would enjoy greater prominence. It is historically important and rich in art. Fine wooden decorations, plus numerous plaques, tablets and engravings commemorate the “yimin”—the “sincere and righteous martyrs”—interred on the temple grounds.

More significantly, it differs from the vast majority of Taiwanese shrines in that the spiritual entities worshipped here include not only gods and deities that were once human, but also a dog.

Yimin Temple is not huge, just 9.5 meters wide and 14.5 meters long. Unlike many other shrines, there is no central courtyard. The main censer is located out front. It was classified as a third-level national relic by the Ministry of the Interior in 1991. An English-language information panel in front of the temple gives some background, though oddly it makes no mention of the dog.

In 1786, Lin Shuang-wen (林爽文) launched a massive uprising against Qing Dynasty rule. For a while, the rebels dominated about half of Taiwan, and it wasn’t until the beginning of 1788 that imperial forces regained full control of the western lowlands.

Like many other settlements, Beigang formed a militia to protect the town from the rebels. The militiamen were backed by a brave and intelligent dog whose vigilance helped foil sneak attacks. However, during a nighttime assault, 108 of the defenders and the dog were killed.

Later, when the Qing authorities had captured Lin and restored order, officials presented town leaders with an inscribed horizontal tablet which commemorated the dead.

By that time, the militia’s casualties, including the dog, had been buried on a piece of land that later became the Yimin Temple.

In the rear chamber, an engraved stone tablet honors the “righteous dog general.” Offerings such as crackers and fruit (but not, at least when I visited, including dog food) are placed before a small dog statue inside a plastic case.

The dog’s grave, which is big enough for three or four adult humans, is right behind the temple.

There are two human mass graves, one on either side of the main chamber. Both are covered by concrete.

One grave dates from 1786-88, the other from a different rebellion in 1862. This one started in Changhua, and was led by Dai Chao-chun (戴潮春). Dai moved south but failed to capture Beigang’s port. Thirty-six local militiamen were killed in the battle. Each year, on the thirtieth day of the fifth lunar month, rites are held to honor these martyrs.

The temple’s address is 20 Jingyi Street (旌義街20號). However, the easiest way to find it is to locate Minjhu Road (民主路), and then walk down Minrong Street (民榮街). Minrong Street is barely one-car wide and there is very little parking right near the temple.

While you’re in Beigang, do spend some time in the commercial district in front of Chaotian Temple (朝天宮), the Mazu shrine that is the town’s main attraction.

The neighborhood is chockfull of traditional stores. Some of these places have been in business for half a century; a few claim 100 years of history.

Among the items sold here are Beigang Cakes, which locals purchase when they want to celebrate a wedding or a relative passing a major exam. These pastries are somewhat like jumbo moon cakes. Some weigh almost two kilograms and are filled with egg yolk, stewed meat, and red bean paste.

If these do not appeal, try some of Beigang’s other popular snacks, such as peanuts and deep-fried broad beans. The latter are best eaten cold.

How to get there:

Frequent buses link Beigang with Chiayi City (嘉義市). The bus station there is five minutes’ walk from the railway station: Head along Jhongshan Road (中山路) and you’ll find it on your right. There are also some direct buses from Kaohsiung (高雄) and Douliou (斗六). If you’re coming from Chiayi, get off as soon as the bus crosses the river that is the boundary between Chiayi County and Yunlin County. You’ll find yourself in Yimin Road (義民路). From there, small bilingual signs point the way to Chaotian Temple.