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A two-day motorcycle trip to the North Cross Island Highway
We left Hsinchu (新竹) early the morning, the rain of the past week giving us a nice break, fresh air and clear views. It was the beginning of spring, and with the resurrection of new life I hoped to find the resurrection of a troubled soul and an overworked spirit. There are many sights and sounds on this itinerary. It is good to plan a bit in advance otherwise you might run out of time. As a suggestion, the first stop can be the great Shimen Reservoir in Toayuan County (在桃園縣的石門水庫), the biggest body of water in Taiwan. We did not, however, stop here but were eager to leave humans and human settlements behind. The mountains waiting, we pressed on. Make sure you fill up at Dasi (大溪), the last town when heading up the mountains, since there are no gas stations within the mountains. If you need emergency gas, the township of Baling (巴陵) can provide fuel from a drum at hefty price. Highway 7 is a narrow road, troubled by recurring landslides and falling rocks and the meandering curves can be hard to manage. This might exactly be the reason why this is the road less traveled to cross the island. It is a slow affair as the chicanes limit your speed to a steady cruise, but that's just perfect for a motorcycle or scooter. It gives you more time to take in the breathtaking valleys, the splendid mountaintops and the abundant waterfalls. Ride just too fast, and you might miss them all stopping regularly to take in what nature has to offer, we gradually made our way up the mountains to our destination: Mingche Forest reserve (明池國家森林遊樂區). After riding for about 5 hours, this hotel is almost three quarters of the way to the eastern side, at an elevation of 1,700 meters above sea level. This is the only form of civilization, and perfect to get away from it all. The forest is almost always shrouded in mist and has a European feel to it. There are numerous walking trails to explore 4,000-year-old trees, fern fairylands and amazing scenery. Boarding is not cheap, but the fresh air guarantees a good nights rest. Book early, for they are always busy, and try to get a log cabin instead of the hotel. Early the next morning, go for a stroll one more time to experience the tranquility of this mountain retreat. After we had a good traditional breakfast, we headed back to our citadel. Going back is just as good going too, since the intricate design of the mountains gives one a new perspective if you return the same way you have come. It might be the same road, but the mountains look different, you spot new waterfalls and witness new-fangled sights. On the way back are many places to visit, such as the waterfall of Xaio Wulai (小烏來), the old trees of La La Mountain (拉拉山) and for a bit of history, visit Chiang Kai-shek's coffin waiting to be entombed at Lake Placid (慈湖紀念雕塑公園). It was coming back, cruising in concord with my soul, that I started to sing. A singer I am not, and often the lyrics are failing me. This is when I remembered Plato, and my incomplete songs resonated against the backdrop of mountain upon mountain, in tune with preying eagles into a crescendo of cascading waterfalls. I answered the call of nature, and was rewarded when nature answered my song in my heart. The wind in my hair whispered back to me, and for this I will be always grateful. Plato also said that money can be a great comforter, but when you don't have money, take what nature can offer you and let your sole be at peace. Ditto. |
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