www.ChinaPost.com.tw


Hsinkang welcomes annual Matsu trek

Thursday, April 5, 2007
by Dan Bloom Special to The China Post


Every year, thousands of religious pilgrims make the long trek from Taichung (台中) County to Chiayi (嘉義) County -- and back again -- in honor of the goddess Matsu (媽祖). This year, the pilgrimage arrives in the southern town of Hsinkang (新港)in Chiayi County on March 29 before turning around and starting the march back north to Taichung.

It's a religious event that is part spiritual, part cultural and part "once in a lifetime" tourist event. Hsinkang plays host to the army of Matsu pilgrims and gives them a much needed rest stop to recharge their batteries, regroup, get some sleep and get ready to get on the road again.

Hsinkang is a small town about 30 minutes by car from Chiayi City, and it's in an agricultural area with hundreds of small farms and rice paddies everywhere. The new Taiwan high speed rail goes right through Hsinkang on its elevated route to nearby Taibao(太保), some eight kilometers away.

A small hamlet with a laid-back atmosphere, the town is the hometown of world famous dance choreographer Lin Hua-min, among other local notables who made it big in Taipei, and the local cultural organization hosts a bi annual culture festival as well, bringing in dance and singing groups from Europe, Japan and North America to perform and jam with locals.

For sightseeing, Hsinkang boasts one of the island's most famous temples, the Hsinkang Temple, and this is where thousands of Matsu pilgrims converge each year, praying in front of the temple and going inside as well. For tourists from overseas, it's a sight to be seen, and definitely something to write (and blog) home about.

For four days, Hsinkang, as the southern terminus of the Matsu pilgrimage is filled with worshipers, tourists, TV trucks and camera crews, and the entire town turns out to play host and welcome their Taiwanese countrymen to their humble village. From the colorfully dressed "patrolman" who heads the Matsu procession to the people on bicycles and those walking the entire route, Hsinkang becomes an other-worldly town for a few days in spring. Many people camp out in tents or sleep in trucks or in special local hostels and school gymnasiums.

In addition, the town's many eateries do a booming business selling local snacks and drinks, from the always popular lamb stew and sweet and sour pork and sweet cakes in front of the temple, to the gourmet food offered at the relaxing and comfortable Hsinkang Living Room not far from the main temple.

The "patrolman" is perhaps the most unique character in the entire Matsu pilgrimage, and when he arrives in Hsinkang, he stays in a special house near the main temple and regales friends and strangers with stories from the road.The colorfully costumed "patrolman", whose job is to lead the procession from Taichung to Chiayi and back again, wears a sandal on one foot, while going barefoot with his other foot -- during the entire 8 day procession! He also rolls up one leg of his pants, where passerby can see a few colored band-aids attached to his calf and ankle. He also carries an umbrella over his shoulder, and displays several vegetables and animal feet as part of his symbolic attire. A teapot full of whiskey also accompanies the patrolman wherever he goes in Hsinkang. A fake black moustache, fake black glasses and an old farmer's hat is also part of his costume.

When pilgrims congregate around him at the main temple in Hsinkang, the patrolman hands out short strips of red string, which is said to bring good luck and health to all who carry it with them

A visit to Hsinkang is good any time of the year, and if you miss the Matsu pilgrimage this month, a visit to the scenic town in the summer, fall or winter, is also a good idea. From the Chiayi train station, buses connect to Hsingkang for the 30-minute ride, while local taxis can take you there as well.

In addition, the new Taiwan High Speed Rail station in Taibao, near Chiayi City, is just eight kilometers from Hsinkang and there is connecting bus and taxi service from the Taibao station, too.

Copyright © 1999 – 2009 The China Post.
Back to Story