Westwood, Gaultier, Viktor & Rolf play with colors in Paris
By Thomas Adamson, APPARIS--It's going to be a black and white Christmas this winter, judging by the lack of color on the Paris catwalk Saturday.
March 4, 2013, 12:26 am TWN
Fall-winter 2013-14 shows saw several houses chose a more muted color palette — among them Viktor & Rolf, Comme des Garcons, Jean Paul Gaultier as well as Madrid-based Loewe.
Belgian designer Veronique Leroy, who also used black, added to the one of the other stories of the season: large rounded shoulders — in what was an inventive, off-kilter show which will add to her reputation as a skillful surrealist.
Predictably, the British master of unorthodoxy Vivienne Westwood bucked the trend with panache, in a display of tailored pointed shoulders.
One of the highlights of Paris's fifth day of collections, Westwood's show was an inventive tour de force, inspired by the rich fabrics and draped silks brought to Europe by the medieval crusaders.
Medieval references were interpreted with signature zest in Saturday's show, in flowing feminine silk silhouettes. Sublime silk-wool jacquards with medieval images of birds, flowers and strawberries mixed with capes and puffed Juliette sleeves.
“I have a book of reproduced medieval illuminated manuscripts,” explained Westwood backstage, provoking smiles from some journalists.
Patterns such as rings, polka dots, interrupted lines and squares were aimed to evoke the decorative patterns on the handmade manuscript borders.
A model wears a creation by designer Vivienne Westwood for her Fall/Winter 2013-2014 ready to wear collection, in Paris, Saturday, March 2.