Viktor & Rolf wow crowds; Gaultier goes ethnic

Givenchy's maestro of masochism, the super talented Riccardo Tisci, plumbed the depths of the Id, serving up a mouthwatering collection of kinky looks concocted from such apparently innocent ingredients as old school ski sweaters and neoprene, the fabric wetsuits are made of.

Besides the odd-but-comeplling display, other highlights of the day included the world-beat vibe at Jean Paul Gaultier, where a band made up of such disparate elements as a Russian balalaika and an accordion provided the sound track for a globe-trotting show, that drew on patterns, designs and aesthetics from as far afield as Mongolia, Finnish Lapland and Mexico.

Karl Lagerfeld, the ponytailed Kaiser of contemporary fashion, also looked to scubadiving for a latex and vinyl-heavy show of vaguely wetsuit-y looks.

Prince Charming, in Ceylon blue tights and a mad swirl of knits sweaters, vests, scarves and coats in clashing colors, walked an oddly tame and sober Vivienne Westwood catwalk.

Fur took center stage at Viktor & Rolf, where the designers undressed and then dressed supermodel Kristen McNameny like a Russian stacking doll, zipping the garments piled onto her down to size zero with a complex system of zippers and drawstrings as they dressed a rotating cast of other models. On stage. In front of an audience of thousands.

Christian Dior

The French luxury powerhouse fielded an Amazon-inspired collection at the spring-summer haute couture shows last January. But while Galliano's couture equestrians were creatures of the day, the ready-to-wear women were night riders who mixed naughty lingerie with their sturdy horse gear.

An electrical storm, with flashing lights and a soundtrack of clapping thunder and thumping hoofbeats set the tone for the racy, romantic show.

Cropped tweed jodhpurs were paired with skimpy lingerie tops and trenches in buttery maroon leather, and the models wore thigh-high riding boots with stiletto heels.

Leather the horsey material par excellence was seen everywhere, from little jackets with pinched waists and ample peplums to flippy skirts in punched leather so fine it looked like lace. Even a black strapless cocktail dress was made in vampy black leather.

Eveningwear was whisp-light, a muted rainbow of feathery silks spun into delicately beaded empire waisted gowns and nighty dresses.

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