Some gardening chores for autumn

Annuals' show of blooms is beginning to slow. Bring some clumps indoors to propagate for next season. This requires at least 50 percent humidity, sunny conditions, and a greenhouse and/or grow lights for maximum success. Between now and the beginning of March, take four six-inch-long cuttings and dip them in a rooting hormone like Root Tone, and start rooting plants for spring. Perlite is a good medium to use. Cuttings from wax begonias, impatiens, coleus, marigolds, geraniums and salvias are some annuals that clone easily this way.

Chrysanthemums are perennials often treated as annuals and discarded at the end of the season. If left in ground, they will grow back in spring. Cut plants back to within an inch or two of the plant base when fall flowering stops, and protect the roots with two to three inches of mulch. As new growth begins, when stems attain six to eight inches, pinch them in half. Then pinch the top leaf buds again in June and July. Flower buds will form through July and August and be much fuller because of this.

Now is the best time to install spring bulbs. Many of them, especially tulips, prefer November planting. As long as there is good moisture and drainage, most seasoned bulbs have the nutrition for foliage and flowers they need already stored in their root system from last year's growth. Planting them late in the season discourages fungal diseases. Hybrid tulips generally have the most to gain from fertilizer. Unfortunately, deer love tulips, so plant them in enclosed areas or apply deer repellent as foliage emerges.

Deer don't eat daffodils. Install them in a random natural style in groups of at least 10 to 15 bulbs throughout woodlands or perennial borders. The only problem I have with designing daffodils is lack of aesthetics while they are seasoning. One way to disguise daffodil foliage is by planting them with a hybrid of the perennial commonly called false spiraea. It emerges from the ground as daffodils flower. While bulbs are seasoning, astilbe is growing around daffodil foliage holding it perfectly upright.

Fall weather is ideal for plant installation. Roses get their best beginning if planted in November and mulched well with shredded bark, compost or other material.

Divide perennials to open up garden areas, create air circulation and make room for other perennials in spring.

To divide and transplant perennials, dig up and separate their roots. Dig a hole, add compost to the soil, place a division into the ground, and tamp the soil mixture around the transplanted flora. Water and lay mulch over the surface about two to three inches thick for winter protection.

Daylilies are easy to divide by cutting off root pieces and planting as described above. Hand-divide rhizomes of daylilies by washing soil from their roots. This will yield more plants and can, in the case of daylilies, produce larger, showier flowers.

Divide dense stands of lily of the valley every three to five years for best flowering in protected sun or shade. This is best accomplished either now, in late winter or in early spring.

Don't divide perennials that are still flowering, like New York ironweed, Joe-Pye weed, New England asters, boltonias, autumn joy sedums and chrysanthemums. Cut perennials to the base as they lose ornamental interest.

Peonies do better in spring if they are transplanted in the fall. If your peonies have prolific foliage but didn't bloom, they are probably in too much shade or are planted too deeply. Generally peonies don't need dividing, but if you want more of them, or if they need more sunlight, cut them back when their foliage yellows or browns and loses ornamental value in the garden.

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