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| 翻譯訂China Post 輕鬆讀 Guide Post 網路價 半年只要 2,700 !! 訂閱 刨冰 許多傳統的消暑聖品最近都捲土重來了。今年夏天,美國飲食界似乎已經宣布刨冰是最熱門的酷涼之道。
刨冰在亞洲流行已數不清有幾個世代了,而且各國還各有各的版本。在台灣,刨冰店在街頭街尾都不難找到;這些冰店出售的消暑佳品所使用的食材很廣泛,包括甜甜的紅豆、綠豆和粉圓,以及嚼勁 Q 彈的愛玉凍等等。有時,店家還會在刨冰上澆上煉乳或果糖,讓刨冰更甘甜。 而美國有另一種歷史相當悠久的刨冰,這點會令某些人十分意外。在美國,這種點心和夏威夷關係密切;夏威夷有很多日本人定居,他們從日本老家帶來這種佳品。現在,這種經典甜點正捲土重來,在全國各地吸引了很多新粉絲。 大衛卡瑞爾是從紐約市發跡的「人民冰品店」業者之一,他說:「我們店前大擺長龍,大家都很興奮。」人民冰品店的拿手好菜是刨冰和冰棒,兩者都是用鮮果和香草葉製成的。卡瑞爾也是人民冰品店五十五種冰棒和刨冰食譜的共同作者之一,他認為刨冰即將成為一股主流的旋風。 卡瑞爾相信,刨冰之所以會流行,有一個很充分的理由──刨冰有超群的魅力,特別當冰是用人工斧鑿而不是用機器刨剉時更是如此。他說:「冰棒在視覺上不會讓人感到興奮,但假如你面前有一塊重一百磅(四十五點五公斤)的冰塊,又看著別人用手刨冰,你會看得入迷。特別是在氣溫高達攝氏四十度的時候。」 刨冰可以像人民冰品店那樣用手刨,但也可以用市面有售的各種刨冰機刨製,這些機器都號稱可以刨出最佳口感的刨冰。這些刨冰機在美國各地愈來愈常見了,有很多大型連鎖商店,像 Target 等,今年夏天都進了許多不同種類的刨冰機。 現在,人們在刨冰上變的花樣更有趣了。許多餐廳主廚利用新的口味和技術作新的嘗試,希望給這傳統佳品帶來全新的現代感。美國有些刨冰店會供應不同口味的糖漿,如鳳梨和草莓等經典口味;或比較不那麼傳統的種類,像華府賓恩區 PS7s 餐廳主廚彼得史密斯製作的芒果茶和青蘋果口味等。 在維吉尼亞州阿靈頓,灣流烘焙咖啡餐廳的主廚戴維斯古阿斯正在自行研發新口味的刨冰。他說,好吃刨冰的秘訣,是用最新鮮的水果作材料。他也建議澆上糖漿前先用吸管戳一下冰,可使糖漿分布得更均勻。 這種消暑妙品不斷變化,有些店家甚至還供應冰沙。人民冰品店業者卡瑞爾說:「氣溫是攝氏卅五度,又是七月天,還有比西瓜檸檬刨冰更好的選擇嗎?」刨冰一向是亞洲美食不可或缺的一環,看來今年就要席捲全世界了,俗語說得好:「老即是新。」 | |||
| Shaved ice | |||||
| Many traditional summer treats have been coming back into fashion lately, and this summer it seems that the U.S. foodie scene has declared shaved ice the hot "new" way to stay — and be — cool.
Shaved ice has been a popular dessert in Asia for countless generations and many countries have their own variation of the classic treat. In Taiwan, bao bing stores can be found on many streets. These stores serve up the refreshing delicacy with a wide variety of ingredients, including sweet red or green beans, tapioca balls, chewy goodies like aiyu jelly, and so on. Condensed milk or fruit syrups are sometimes poured over the shaved ice to give it an added sweetness. It might surprise some people to learn that a somewhat different variety of shaved ice has a long history in the United States. In the U.S., the dessert is particularly associated with Hawaii, where many Japanese people settled, bringing the treat with them from their homeland. Now, the classic dessert is experiencing a revival and finding new fans all across the country. "We have long lines. People are really excited about it," said David Carrell, one of the operators of the New York City-based People's Pops, which specializes in shaved ice, along with ice pops, both made with fresh fruits and herbs. Carrell, also a coauthor of the new "People's Pops" cookbook containing 55 ice pop and shaved ice recipes, thinks shaved ice is on the verge of becoming a mainstream phenomenon. Carrell believes that there is a very good reason for this, saying shaved ice has dramatic appeal, especially when it is made from hand-carved ice instead of using machines. "There's not much visibly exciting about an ice pop," he said. "But if you have a 100-pound (45.5-kg) block of ice sitting in front of you and you're watching someone shave it by hand — especially on a day when it's approaching 40 degrees Celsius — it will stop you in your tracks." Shaved ice can be made the old-fashioned way like People's Pops does it or in one of the many machines available on the market, each promising to deliver ice with just the right texture. These machines are increasingly easy to find in the U.S. Many big chain stores like Target are stocking many different models of the machines this summer. What people are doing with shaved ice is where things are getting interesting. Many chefs are experimenting with new flavors and techniques to give the traditional treat a modern feel. Syrup flavors at some shaved ice stores in the U.S. now range from classic options, such as pineapple or strawberry, to the less-traditional, like the mango tea and green apple varieties served by chef Peter Smith at PS7s restaurant in the Penn Quarter section of Washington, D.C. At the Bayou Bakery, Coffee Bar and Eatery in Arlington, Virginia, chef Davis Guas is currently testing out some new shaved ice flavors of his own. He explained that the secret to good shaved ice is using the freshest fruit. He also recommends poking the ice with a straw before adding any syrup. This helps ensure that the syrup gets evenly distributed. As the treat evolves, some stores are even offering shaved ice drinks. People's Pops operator Peter Carrell has created a fresh watermelon lemonade shaved ice. "When it's 35 degrees Celsius and it's July, nothing really beats a shaved ice watermelon lemonade," he said. Long a fixture of Asian cuisine, it seems that shaved ice is ready to take the world by storm. As the old saying goes, "Everything old is new again." | |||||
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