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Updated Monday, December 5, 2011 0:02 am TWN, By Lydia Lin, The China Post



	In this undated photo, Taiwanese designer Lu Xue-zheng (呂學政) holds up his signature designs: a sporty black jacket with distinctly Asian embellishments of the traditional, Mandarin collar. (Courtesy of LuXueZheng.com) More Photos (2)

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Long designer infuses Hakka into high fashion

The China Post--Consumers of fashion in Taiwan generally like to follow trends, but are less concerned with their origins. They know what is “in” from what other people are wearing, what is selling in stores and playing on a loop in commercials. If they are older, they might see a re-emergence of certain looks and styles and point them out wistfully.

What many may overlook is the fact that the majority of such trends come from the West, a fashion industry reality that deeply concerns rising Hakka designer Lu Xue-zheng (呂學政).

“Asian fashion is severely under-represented in the industry,” Lu lamented, explaining further that all recycled trends on the runway — revamped “retro,” if you will — derive from different eras of Western history. Whether it is the “hippie-chic” style of flared jeans and floral dresses from the 60s and 70s, or the comeback of Ray-Bans and Doc Martens from the 80s and 90s, one will be hard-pressed to find an iconic, Asian fashion item reminiscent of a cultural wave — aside from dowdy “Mao suits” or Qi-paos from the 1920s — that has cemented its relevance into the everyday, ready-to-wear realm.

“When you think about it, there is really no such thing as 'Asian retro' style,” Lu pointed out. It made him wonder why Asian fashion, unlike that of the West, was not being refreshed and recycled.

While some Asian designers purposely avoid incorporating oriental elements in their lines for fear of being too predictable or indulging in stereotypes, others, like “Chanel of Taiwan” Shiazty Chen (夏姿), have thrived by capitalizing on a distinctly “Neo-Chinese chic” aesthetic. Does Lu, with his newly minted label “Lu Xue Zheng,” wish to follow Shiazty's footsteps?

“I respect her style, but I would say my clothes are a little younger and more adventurous,” the Shih Chien University (實踐大學) fashion design graduate said. Judging by his online look book and his personal style (Lu has lines for both men and women), the young designer has taken pains to subtly weave his Hakka ancestry into his clothes.

On the day of The China Post interview at the TTF-founded Design Atelier (台北服飾快速設計打樣中心) offices, Lu is his own walking advertisement, wearing a well-structured jean jacket, the inside of which is lined with handkerchiefs vibrant with imprints of Hakka Tung blossoms. In pictures, a Lu Xue Zheng beige trench coat is also lined with the similar Hakka patterns.

“I found the handkerchiefs at a local market. Maybe one day I will draw the flowers myself as my own interpretation of the fabric, but until then, the real thing will do.”

Lu figured out early that pursuing a career based on passion and love can overcome practicality. His determination paid off, too, when as a student at Shih Chien, he won both the Taiwan Fashion Award and the Taiwan Sin Sa Award. Invitations to exhibit at Sweden's So Stockholm Gallery, at the Taipei Flora Expo and the 2011 Taipei IN Style (台北魅力國際服裝服飾品牌展) followed.

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