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May 30, 2017

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Deep in champagne country, Bouzy makes a fine red wine

BOUZY, France--If ever there was a place destined to produce a cheeky tipple, it has to be the village of Bouzy in the champagne country of northern France.

Yes, it really is pronounced "boozy" and that is not the only thing that stands out about this charming little corner of the wine world.

All around stretch vineyards that produce the grapes to make the world's most prestigious sparkling wine. For as far as the eye can see, bubbles are the business, and a lucrative one at that.

Bouzy however has another string to its bow, thanks to a group of dedicated producers who have opted to maintain, albeit largely as a sideline, a centuries old tradition of producing still red wine from pinot noir vines planted close to the northern limit of where the notoriously fickle varietal will ripen fully.

"We are like the little Gaulois village in the Asterix stories," says local vigneron (winemaker) Jean-Rene Brice.

"Instead of holding out against the Romans, we are holding out for red wine production whilst all around everyone is making champagne."

Brice's family property has eight hectares of vines situated above the village on land that is eligible to provide red grapes for the production of the very best, Grand Cru champagnes, most of which are assembled from a mixture of black grapes — pinot noir and pinot meunier — and chardonnay white grapes.

Ripest Grapes Possible For Fruit Power

Despite the high price that grapes destined for bottles of bubbly can command, Brice keeps one eighth of his land dedicated to the production of Bouzy Rouge, ensuring the maintenance of a tradition his family have nurtured since the 17th Century.

"This wine was being served at royal coronations and savored at the table of Louis XIV long before champagne acquired its worldwide fame," he says in a reference to the fact that many French kings were once crowned in the cathedral at Reims, the capital of the Champagne region.

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